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“Ciano: Shea Gallante's Return to Italy”

I was a big fan of Beppe, the Tuscan-inspired Italian spot on East 22nd Street anchored by a blazing hearth and famous for its fantastic butcher's pasta and rosemary-dusted frites. But since its departure opened the door to Shea Gallante returning to his Italian roots, I guess it's a fair trade. Indeed, before he cooked at Bouley and Cru, Gallante cooked for Pino Luongo and Lidia Bastianich. He's channeling these mentors at Ciano, now open in the former Beppe space.

Fellow Cru alum John Slover is offering a half-bottle international wine list.

On the menu you'll find dishes starters like warm calamari salad, marinated sea bream with blood orange, and veal meatballs, a small selection of pastas (pappardelle with duck bolognese, cavatelli with baby octopus), and mains like roast chicken, lobster pot, steak for two, and Chatham cod with puttanesca fresca.

Oh, and the hearth is still there, to warm body and soul. If he'd just make some of those rosemary fries, I'd really be happy.

Ciano is located at 45 East 22nd Street, between Park and Broadway, 212-982-8422.

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