<< previous   next >>

pot luck

“Ossau Delicious!”

Welcome to your monthly cheese fix with Sasha Davies, your Strong Buzz cheese columnist, who this month features one unforgettable cheese. The Brebis Pardou Selection Montagne is made in Laruns, France (Western Pyrenees) by Fromagerie Pardou, Affineur en Vallee d'Ossau. This is a raw sheep milk cheese that's aged 9-12 months in the style of a tomme. Read on to learn more about the producer, the style of cheese, and what to drink and eat with it. (Personally, I love it right off the cheese knife.) Enjoy, and don't forget to Share your Two Cents and let us know what you think when you try it.

The Producers:

Nestled in the Western Pyrenees, the Ossau Valley is a special place for sheep's milk cheese production. The "producer" of this cheese, Fromagerie Pardou, is in a town called Laruns, located squarely within the National Park of the Pyrenees. The fromagerie is actually an affineur meaning that they focus only on maturing the cheeses they collect from cheesmakers in the region. Their extensive cheese cave can hold up to 17,000 cheeses.

This arrangement illustrates one of the major differences between the systems for artisan cheese production in America and Europe. In the U.S. many smaller scale cheesemakers, even those who raise their own animals, mature the cheeses they produce themselves. In Europe, cooperative methods are somewhat common where milk from multiple farmers goes to one cheesemaker and/or cheeses from multiple cheesemakers is transferred to one affineur. This arrangement benefits not only the fromagerie but also the individual cheesemakers who then do not have to concern themselves with aging the cheese or taking the cheeses to market.

Fromagerie Pardou is working largely with what we would call "farmstead cheesemakers", people who are raising their own animals and making cheese from their milk. The fromagerie collects cheese from over 100 cheesemakers that are committed to honoring regional cheesemaking traditions. The Bearnaise tradition for cheeses like Brebis Pardou means that shepherds are working with one of two breeds of sheep, Manech or Basco-Bearnaises.

The Cheese:
Brebis Pardou is part of a larger family of cheeses called Ossau-Iraty that, as of 1986, has its own AOC distinction meaning that the method of production is regulated by an organization that protects regional food products. If you have been to any cheese shop worth its curd you have seen, and hopefully tasted, at least one of Brebis Pardou's cousins. Some of the more popular are Abbaye de Belloc, Ardi Gasna, Ossau Brebis, Pyrenees Brebis, Ossau Iraty, Ossau Vieille, and Tourmalet.

All of these cheeses are made from sheep's milk, usually raw, and have a natural. Light brown rind that is often mottled with spots of molds ranging in color from white to rusty orange. Brebis Pardou is a golden 10- pound wheel with a firm yet supple paste and a fantastic balance of savory and sweet notes. The Ossau-Iraty cheeses all possess a winning combination of delicate nutty flavors and a subtle cooked brown sugar taste on the finish. Perfect for snacking, formal cheese courses, or dessert- these are cheeses built to please any hungry crowd.

Pair with:

Wines- Tradition and terroir would guide you to a lesser-known basque country wine called Irouleguy like Irouleguy "Ohitza", Domaine Brana – 2005. The tannins in the wine will be softened the fats and protein in the cheese. On the whites it would be nice to go with something creamy and let the nuttiness of the cheese come through for example a Chablis or Macon like Domaine des Comtes Lafon-2005.

Beer- Something like Rogue Hazelnut Nectar or Morimoto Soba could heighten the nutty elements in the cheese without overpowering the sweetness.

Spirits- Give this cheese a shot with any whiskey with honey or toffee notes rather than smoke and peat like Scapa 14 Year from Orkney Island. A terrific end to any meal.

Condiments- Traditionally served with black cherry preserves.


Available in some form or other at:
Artisanal Premium Cheese, www.artisanalcheese.com
Formaggio Essex (this is where they have Brebis Pardou), Essex Street Market at Delancey
Murray's Cheese, 254 Bleecker Street
Whole Foods Bowery, 95 East Houston between Chrystie and Bowery

—Sasha Davies, www.cheesebyhand.com

 

 

<< previous   next >>

Posted: March 2, 2008

Share ! Post a comment