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“Lure Fishbar”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Seafood	Soho	Moderate	Great

at is lightly perfumed with golden (sautéed) garlic and infused with chiles ($16). Shaved sea scallops are tossed with young ginger marinade, grated scallions, and radish ($12), and a slivered slabs of fluke are served topped with a dot of intense lemon-jalepeno “condiment”—think mustard—that should be schmeared across the glossy surface of the fish. Then you should swallow the whole thing in one bite. Killer. (In a good way.) The raw fishbar section (there are about a dozen selections in all, in addition to a standard raw shellfish bar) begs to be eaten and reviewed again and again, perhaps at the bar one night, with some sake or as a round of apps another night with a bottle of Sancerre.

Capon also offers more standard fare like New England clam chowder ($9), and crab cakes (these tasted overwhelmingly like celery cakes to me for some reason and resemble falafel more than crab cakes, $14), and main courses like black cod steamed with sake and three mushrooms, ($24) and oil poached salmon with sweet and sour bell peppers and fill oil ($25). We went the way of surf and turf—seared scallops on thin golden blinis made from polenta and a nice buttery slab of filet mignon with sautéed maitaki mushrooms. Another night we had the whole Dorade—a stunning fish specimen with crispy skin and sweet, delicious flesh brought to attention with an assertive acidic sauce of dill and lemon. It was great. For those who must have meat—a dry-aged sirloin with crispy potatoes and tomato salad ($34), and a crispy chicken with braised artichokes with a Riesling pan sauce ($22). But why bother?

To finish off your meal, I’d take a stab at a dessert or two. Deb Snyder, who is the pastry chef at Lever House consulted on the dessert menu at Lure and she’s turning out easy standards like key lime tart (loved the crushed graham cracker crust) and a deliriously rich Devil’s Food cake that resembles a ring ding, in a decadent chocolate glaze.

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Posted: September 18, 2004

Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   

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