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“Chickenbone Cafe-- Closed”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Brooklyn	Cheap Eats	Great

Wondering about the next hot cuisine? We’ve been through Asian, Italian, Indian, Thai, and a blend of all four, but we haven’t yet had the pleasure of Brooklyn Global. Until now. And discovering it is sort of like finally having a great lover; you don’t quite realize how much you’re missing. And then you have one, and you do. Eureka. 

The brainchild of chef Zak Pelaccio (who is now a chef/consultant to chickenbone, and who is moving on to open Five Ninth in the Meatpacking district later this year, stay tuned), Brooklyn Global cuisine (and maybe that great lover) is on tap at Chickenbone Café, a slickly rustic, inviting, wood-paneled hang in Williamsburg. Mr. Pellacio has crafted an irresistible, modestly priced, international menu of small plates, sandwiches, salads, soups, and sweets made from just-picked, sustainably-grown, regional ingredients. Indeed, many of the ingredients are so local they are from Brooklyn (hence, Brooklyn Global); Mr. Pelaccio scoured the borough’s best food shops for his menu, showcasing ice cream, beer, schmaltz, whiskey, mozzarella, and kielbasa made by local old timers.

 

With a resume that includes stints at Union Pacific, The French Laundry, and Daniel, Mr. Pelaccio’s food is the sort you’ll want to feast on every day. A Vietnamese sausage sandwich ($7) gives sweet and hot tastebuds a thrilling twister ride; a tartiflette ($7)—a smothered, cheesy gratin made from potatoes, reblochon, and bacon—clogs arteries with delight; a slab of cashmere-like foie gras tourchon ($6) brings a calm sense of bliss to the whole body. One of the most incredible dishes on the menu is the Bread Soup ($6) (Who knew?) It is a thick, hearty, Alsatian-style meal, made from braised cabbage, apples, fresh bacon, and, well, bread, with melting fingers of Fontina cheese stretching in between bites. Eureka.

 

Chickenbone Cafe, 177 South 4th Street, b/w Driggs & Roebling, 718-302-2663.

 

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Posted: August 1, 2003

Other restaurants in Brooklyn :
+ Chickenbone Cafe-- Closed   + Pier 116-- Closed   + Chestnut   + Lunch at Peter Luger's   + 360   + Palo Santo   + The Good Fork   + Porchetta-- Closed Now   + Bocca Lupo   + Flatbush Farm   + DuMont Burger   + Dressler   + Farm on Adderley   + The Grocery   + Saul   + Black Mountain Wine House   + The General Greene   + Char No. 4   + James   + Chestnut   + No. 7   + Vinegar Hill House   + Motorino   + Buttermilk Channel   + Buttermilk Channel   + Vutera   + Watty & Meg    + Prime Meats   + Aqualis Grill   + Jack the Horse Tavern   + Roman's   + Fatty 'Cue   + Thistle Hill Tavern   + Broken English   + Trix, by Dara Pollak   + An Ode to New Orleans in Williamsburg: Maison Premiere, By Dara Pollak   + Brooklyn Wok Shop by Dara Pollak   + Arthur on Smith   + La Vara   + Gran Electrica   + Pok Pok Ny   + Ganso    + Reynard   

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