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“Jefferson-- Closed”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Asian	West Village	Moderate	Great

Being that I dine out for living, it is rare (but thrilling) for me to discover menus containing ingredients that I have never encountered before. The menu at Jefferson, a chic, modern Asian-inspired spot lined with blond wood and bathed in golden light, contained several. I loved them all.

 

Organic black silky chicken ($23) was one. A crispy, jet black-skinned bird, with alarming gray flesh, was served two ways—a moist roasted breast and a pair of buttery confited legs. Honestly, the bird could have been a bat, it was so black, but I would not have cared. The stylish, urban diners lining the tan banquets didn’t seem to mind the chicken’s resemblance to Dracula’s pet either. Served on a bed of vibrant green Malabar spinach (never heard of that either), with ruby red Asian wine lees (another new one)—a sort of sweet-tart pulpy sauce—that bat/bird was great. Simpson Wong, the brilliant young chef behind Jefferson (and Café Asean), has created a menu of sexy dishes that boldly mix up far-out Asian ingredients with classic French technique. Grilled slices of pink toro were topped with a buttery slab of caramelized foie gras; a heap of roasted quince drizzled with honey sansho peppercorn sauce ($19) finished the dish. A stunning plate of yellowtail sashimi ($13) was winning as well. Organized like dominoes on a long rectangular plate, shimmering slices of supple fish were set atop firm rectangles of Asian pear, dressed with a bright preserved lemon and chive oil.

 

Desserts are also excellent; especially the goat cheese and Fuji apple stuffed pot stickers ($7). Think apple pie in one-bite. At Jefferson, it is as easy to fall in love with the far-out as with the familiar.

 

Jefferson, 121 W 10th Street (b/w 6th and Greenwich Aves), 212-255-3333

 

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Posted: March 1, 2003

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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