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“Dos Caminos”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Latin/Mexican Flatiron Moderate Good

With Dos Caminos—a sexy, urban Mexican cantina—Stephen Hanson adds the regional cuisines of Mexico to a repertoire that already includes Asia (Ruby Foos), America (Blue Fin, Blue Water Grill), and most recently, Italy (Fiamma). Teeming with slender, barely dressed women, and well-chisled men in black, Dos Caminos offers up the well-oiled Steve Hanson machine in full glory—fun in the form of approachable, inventive fare, served up with style.

 

Like his competitors at Rosa Mexicana, Hanson’s guacamole ($12 for 2) is prepared tableside, in a large stone mortar by an elite group of skilled servers who, I imagine, will eventually become known as “Guacamoliers.” Not only is the guacamole terrific, with bright, balanced flavors playing up perfectly ripe avocados, but it will also help you to absorb many rounds of Dos Caminos’ deliciously mind-numbing margaritas ($10).

 

Once you get through the guac, and your first round of ‘ritas, move on to chef Dudley Nieto’s impressive modern Mexican menu. Tostaditas de Tinga ($7) are a brilliant take on what might otherwise be known as nachos: crisp tortilla triangles topped with spoonfuls of juicy chipotle-tomato stewed pork, dotted with diced avocado, and a tangy, creamy queso fresca. Lighter eaters can take refuge in the Red Snapper Ceviche ($9) which arrives looking like a sundae in an orange-frosted glass filled with a citrus-tinged tangle of moist white fish, red onions, tomatoes, and serrano chiles. Order another round of tequilla-soaked cocktails, and then dig into Nieto’s tacos—he offers a half dozen options tucked into warm, handmade corn tortillas. The Pollo ($7) is filled with the hot, soft, shredded meat of a spit-roasted chicken and topped with avocado-tomatillo salsa and queso blanco, while the Asada ($8) is piled high with grilled organic skirt steak, cacabel chiles, caramelized onions, and guacamole ($8). Schedule a daily visit to try them all. But, on one of those visits, be sure to have the Cochinita Pibil ($18)— succulent, slow-roasted pulled pork, fired up with an achiote and citrus marinade, served with refried beans, rice, and fried plantains. While licking the plate clean, you’ll realize that it’s time for another round.

 

Dos Caminos, 373 Park Avenue (b/t 27 & 28th Sts), 212-294-1000

 

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Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   


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