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“Perry Street”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | West Village | Break the Bank | Off the Charts |
Entrees were also big on flavor and heat, which I loved. This full throttle approach to flavor shows that Brainin is not afraid to be bold, to bring some spice and zip into such a sedate and mature setting. To me, the raciness of the food is a welcome balance to the room. We had two flawless entrees. The Rack of Lamb ($34)—juicy, pink and just right—was crusted in soft chili crumbs, and plated with a brunoise of artichokes, braised until tender, then tangled up with ribbons of translucent caramelized onions, and plump sweet peas. The sauce was buttery but bright, with a slight lemony tartness to it that was the punch the sauce needed to go from simple buttery sauce to complex, brilliant sauce.
The Crunchy Rabbit ($28) was a lot of fun—a moist cylindrical loin wrapped in a golden bread crumb crust flecked with chiles, set in a sauce flared up with a deep, intense roasted tomato and chile paste. Again, I think this dish might benefit from being toned down just a bit, but those who are fans of big bold flavors will not be disappointed. I loved it, and though it was a total blast to eat. I’m not ashamed to admit that I like to have fun while I am eating. Life is serious enough outside the protective womb of the dining room.
Desserts (all $9) were exquisite. Pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini, of Jean Georges, is on fire here. His Market Strawberries, macerated and slightly saucy, are set on a lean platform of ethereal cream cheese cake, is accompanied by a quenelle of strawberry sorbet that tastes like a fresh basket of summer’s sweetest crop. His Chocolate Pudding arrives looking like something from a Crabtree & Evelyn shop, poured into a deep white bowl, topped with a smooth sheen of fresh whipped cream on one side and a shower of violets on the other, covering up a smooth and creamy and correctly balanced chocolate pudding (not too sweet, not too bitter), layered with crunchy chocolate cookie bits, an aweso ... [more, click below]
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