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“Perry Street”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American West Village Break the Bank Off the Charts

me textural element. The Poached Cherries were also just divine—fat, soaked in their own syrup, and juicy—served with a few scoops of fresh pistachio ice cream studded with roasted nuts, topped with a tableside pour of sabayon. Gilding the lily, sure, but my feeling in this case is, go ahead and gild.

Now, here’s a little tip for all of you who constantly get the “Sorry we have no tables available line.” Just go over there, early if you can, and you will probably get a table (especially if there are just two of you), or at least a couple of their super comfortable, high-backed seats at the bar. They are trying to keep things quiet and are not really taking many reservations, so the walk in policy is your best bet. Plus they do lunch, and tables are easier to come by then.

There will be a race to eat at Perry Street because it is a rare and lovely restaurant. It is a soothing masterpiece of design that houses a kitchen filled with thoughtful, precise cooks led by a wonderfully talented chef de cuisine, Greg Brainin (led by the supremely gifted Mr. Vongerichten). It is an impressive and incredibly civilized place to dine, with service that is flawless, and food that risks being a bit wild and slightly brazen, despite the sweet serenity of the room. Nicely done.

Perry Street is located at 176 Perry Street, corner of West Street, 212-352-1900.

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