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“Uovo-- CLOSED”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Good

alads. His bitter greens with warm anchovy vinaigrette ($7) was one of the best dishes of the evening—a sharp and salty vinaigrette, if a bit strong, but well seasoned and flecked with little bits of the fishes, that was a smart counterpoint to the mound of twisted bitter greens. But the salad of romaine, market beets, blue cheese and bacon ($8) was a mess. Fresh long ribs of crunchy romaine were suffocated by a runny blue cheese dressing, and topped with some seasoning-free cubed beets and a tongue-sized slab of over-cooked leathery bacon. It was like something from TGI Friday’s. What a disappointment. Next we ordered the asparagus with fried egg ($9). I am not sure why asparagus are on a menu now (asparagus season is done), but this dish is sort of a classic, so I might forgive the seasonal error, but it was a let down. It was assembled from firm pencil-thin grilled asparagus that were properly sprinkled with sea salt, but the rubbery fried egg had a yolk that would not run, and that tasted like plastic. If you are a chef and you see that plate leave your kitchen with a firm orange yolk, re-fry that egg. And throw a bit of salt on that egg before it goes to the table.

After our first course plates were cleared, Susie noticed that we had not been served any bread. And we like carbs, so we asked our waiter, a very enthusiastic guy who recommended a great bottle of red wine from Juan Gill ($32), if we could have some sort of bread with our meal. He said sure, but that it would take three minutes. “Okay,” we said. “We’ve got time.” And we continued chatting about matters that ranged from cancer (a scare last week turned out, thankfully, to be nothing), sleeping with people half your age (and the consequent need for afternoon naps), and the new man in my life (who is amazing, and is not half my age, for the record). Just as we were getting through part one of the “oh-my-god-is-it-cancer” story (a great story because it has a happy ending), a gorgeous grill-marked flatbread arrived, topped at one end with a scoop of cold, thick and tangy yogurt spread. This was one of the most rewarding parts of dinner. We tore into it—it was hot and steamy, chewy and soft, and it went great with that yogurt spread. It was gone in less than three minutes. But I was curious about why we had to ask for the bread, and so I asked our waiter about whether it was a menu item that people needed to order, or whether i ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 21, 2005

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

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