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“Uovo-- CLOSED”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Good

e—but that guy is fiercely talented. And in my experience, he gets the art of seasoning.

Okay, moving on, I must preface this next bit by saying that my friend Susie is prone to overly dramatic and super passionate commentary about food, so please take her reaction in the next sentence with a grain (or ten) of salt. This was the phrase that came out of her mouth after tasting the Whole Roasted Suckling Pig ($22) with citrus honey and jicama slaw, which we ordered to share: “If this were my only entrée, I would want to kill myself. This is awful.” Though I am not sure suicide is the right remedy here, I did agree with her. This little piggie, while very moist and tender, was almost soggy and had zero flavor. I could have been eating a shredded roll of wet paper towels. It was bland and uninspired and such a let down because its menu description was so mouthwatering. When our waiter came over to check on us, we were honest with him and told him that was rather flavorless. His response was: “Wow, really?” He didn’t offer to get us something else, and even though we didn’t eat it, leaving the entire pig on the plate, we were charged for it. Not the best way to win over repeat business. How about pretending to care that we didn’t like the dish, and offering to replace it with something else? Hello? Hospitality anybody? Anybody? Bueller?

Moving on from the sad pig, Hamilton’s skate wing ($22) was beautifully cooked—golden and pan-fried on the outside, with corduroy-like ribbons of sweet flesh beneath the crust—but it was served with two condiments that were the equivalent of getting hit over the head with a Louisville Slugger (a caper remoulade) and then an ax (the super cloying pickled summer squash). Together these accompaniments were just overkill. I had a headache.

His sides were a whole lot better than his entrees, especially his roasted gyspy peppers with caramelized cippolini onions dotted with a thick red almond sauce that was sort of like a spicy romesco ($7), a grilled corn sukqutahhash with roma beans tossed in a crazy amount of heavy cream ($6, I seem to have put five pounds directly onto my glutteal area thanks to this succotash), and a summery bowl of sweet peas and diced asparagus tossed with olive oil and mint ($7).

At this point, we were sort of worn out from the up and down, roller coaster-like nature of our meal, and we were hoping that de ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 21, 2005

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

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