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  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Latin/Mexican Flatiron Moderate Great

Walk by Suenos and you will most likely spy a crowd of people gathered around a large rectangular window, drooling. That is precisely what I found, and soon, I was one of the voyeurs. The sidewalk porthole is a bird’s eye view of the kitchen, where Mexican-cuisine diva (chef-owner) Sue Torres, stands, baseball hat turned backwards, executing orders of her addictive modern regional Mexican cuisine. There are fat, steamy empanadas filled with fava beans and drunken goat cheese ($8.25), crispy flutes stuffed with a rich, spicy mixture of huitlacoche and queso anejo ($8.50) (who knew corn fungus was so tasty), heavenly pork tamales steamed in banana leaves plated in a fiery lather of ancho beurre blanc ($23), a delicious mess of chile-rubbed goat enveloped in avocado leaves and steamed in negra modelo ($22). The line of window-watchers (myself included) remains hypnotized. Pant, pant, drool, drool. We watch the tortilla-crusted Chilean sea bass with chile rajas tamale ($22.50) leave the kitchen, and follow a steamy plate of roast chicken and squash blossom enchiladas with pumpkin seed pipian ($18.50) out into the dining room. We decide to make the move inside, where the sweet smell of warm corn tortillas (made by hand by Alejandra, a native of Puebla) mixes with the wild heat of chiles. The warm, lively bar is packed with a happy lot, and in the air is the certainty that we will drink way too much tequila (in the form of strong, fresh margaritas), that we will feast on some of the best Mexican cooking in town, and that we will love every minute of it. Indeed, the next morning, we are hungover but happy.

Sueños, 311 West 17th Street (b/w 8th & 9th Aves.), 212-243-1333


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Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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