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“D'Or Ahn: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Asian	Chelsea	Moderate	Great

p>Pine nuts were a staple of Korea's Palace cuisine and they are found all over Ms. Yang's innovative Korean-accented menu, including the next dish we ordered—the beef ($14)— sliced impossibly thin and dusted in sweet rice flour and flash-fried. The floppy paper-thin slices are topped with pine nuts and sprouts and set in a spicy mustard sauce. While it is not as attractive to look at as most of Ms. Yang's dishes, this ugly duckling was delicious.

Main courses were just smashing—gorgeous to look at and immensely satisfying to devour. The pork belly ($24)—braised until creamy, hot, and melting—is served in a tall bowl the shape of a nun's habit, bedded on a sweet almost gingery millet risotto with white kimchi. I loved it. Then again, pork belly is a dish I rarely dislike. (My Jewish grandmothers would not be happy to read this. Luckily they don't do the interet.) Since we are on pork belly, I must also plug April Bloomfield's pork belly with chickpeas at The Spotted Pig. A totally different take on the beast's tender underbelly, but equally deserving of attention and multiple orders.

Anyway, back to Ms. Yang, her black cod ($24) actually offers a different take than the ubiquitous miso-glaze. She poaches the fish until it is soft, silky and supple, and serves it with an incredibly fluffy mustard bread pudding. It is fabulous—and it gives the sweetness of the cod the right balance of spice and heat. But the Rib Eye took the food-gasm for the evening. It was placed between Jamie and Susie and they fought over it like teenagers, each one groaning after each bite. I was having my own private moment with the pork belly but I was getting jealous. I wrangled myself a slice of super tender meat and was quite impressed. The rib eye, which is pepper crusted and deeply flavorful, is served in two wedges with what we Jews call potato kuggle—a super light savory potato soufflé that in Korea apparently goes by the term mung bean cake, this one filled up with oxtail ragout. Good stuff people.

Soon, our plates were removed, which, as usual, prompted a discussion of the meal. All of us were universally impressed. I was enchanted with the room as much as the innovative yet approachable menu. Jamie was still raving about the beef and was loving the magnificently flattering lighting. And Susie was just over the moon in love with it all. She declared: "This is now my favor ... [more, click below]

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Posted: December 4, 2005

Other restaurants in Chelsea :
+ Matsuri   + La Bottega   + Tia Pol   + Bombay Talkie   + Cookshop   + D'Or Ahn: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Buddakan   + Crema   + InTent: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Trestle on Tenth   + Klee   + El Quinto Pino   + Socarrat   + Txikito   + Co. (Company)   

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