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“Home”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Great

ers. (Diners who eat out there in the winter receive Polar Bear Diner Club buttons.) The place makes you feels like Mom is in the kitchen cooking. You feel wholesome at Home. (A rare feeling, at least for me.) And the food, exclusively sourced from local farmers and fisherman, keeps things that way.

The menu is comfortingly Americana. Dishes follow the seasons and evoke notions of cast iron frying pans and gingham dishtowels. There is a slight Southern-style to the cuisine-cornmeal fried oysters, roasted chicken, pulled pork, hasty cornmeal pudding, slow-smoked prime rib roast-and while it might be easy to describe it as comfort food (especially because the price points are gentle), the food here has a finesse to it that makes it less like flannel pajamas, and more like cool clean cotton.

Take the Heirloom beet salad ($8)-coins of gorgeous roasted beets in sunset hues-orange, yellow, and red-livened up with juicy orange segments, and a fluff of frisee, topped with a few crispy wafers of Asiago cheese. Striking contrasting chords of salt and sweet, soft and crunchy, it is a perfect salad.

The slow smoked duck ($9) is one of those dishes that you eat and immediately know you want to order it again the next time you come back. It's like a great first date. You know you want another one. The crepes are delicate and dosa-like, fashioned from quinoa flour, and filled up with shredded and pulled smoked duck, with a compote of diced quince and a dollop of crème fraiche seasoned with a bit of thyme. We fought over the last bite. Alison, a good friend of Jamie's who I used to really like, won. Not sure I am inviting her out again.

Cornmeal fried oysters were hot, plump and crispy ($10), bedded on a roasted squash and topped with a zippy apple slaw heated up with jalepenos and sweetened with a drizzle of amber honey.

Ian sent us a little amuse bouche of confited duck gizzards with Seckel pears, cippolini onions, chanterelles and a few toasted pistachios. People, let me just say that confited duck gizzards are amazing. New bar snack calling!

We were also bowled over by Ian's Southern fried quail, a special that night that was served with mashed potatoes and sautéed greens and a small pitcher of giblet gravy that was so good I would have happily had it on its own, by the spoonful. Why couldn't I have grown up in a family that served gravy like this? (More therapy is clearly needed.) And tha ... [more, click below]

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Posted: December 26, 2005

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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