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“Home”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Great

t quail! So tender, moist, and rich, cloaked in a sweet and crunchy buttermilk crust. I was officially impressed. The food was familiar, but it was also spectacular.

Sadly, we were not as wowed by the rabbit ($21), a dish in two parts. One part was off the charts the other was a bit rubbery. The pan roasted rabbit loin was the disappointment. It tasted a bit like overcooked chicken. But we really didn't mind because it was served with a fantastic spiced rabbit sausage fashioned into a hamburger patty that is tucked into a fluffy country biscuit with sauce made from fig mustard. It's okay to drool. I recommend that you skip the loin and just have yourself this rabbit burger.

But we were very pleased with the entirety of the shellfish pan roast ($22) which was beautifully done-creamy but quite light, filled with buttery braised parsnips, potatoes and silky hunks of fish.

For dessert, there's a daily pie special. We had an old-fashioned quince and apple slice that was so good and so homey that it was surely was cooled on a windowsill somewhere. Ian's carrot cake is also quite remarkable. I could not stop eating it. It is as spiced as it is sweet, layered modestly in cream cheese icing.

Home is a not new and flashy. It is not a lab for any blazing culinary techniques. For thirteen years, it has been a place that serves straight up, soul-satisfying American fare that is anchored in the seasons, supported by local ingredients. And then there's the most important part-a plate of fresh baked chocolate chip cookies in the Bay window.

Home is located at 20 Cornelia Street, 212-243-9579.

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Posted: December 26, 2005

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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