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“Jerry's- Closed Now”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Soho Moderate Good

It’s hard to believe it’s been eighteen years since Jerry’s, the Soho diner as icon, opened its heavy chrome doors. Back in the day, when it first opened, Soho was the final frontier, a wild world of unchartered cobblestone crowded with artists and their muses. These days, Soho is essentially an outdoor mall, equipped with Club Monaco, J Crew, Bloomingdales, Old Navy, NY Sports, and one fabulous Mac Store. But Jerry’s is still there (as is Fanelli’s and Zoe), serving a menu of American fare in a chrome-paneled diner setting that has not changed much over the years. You’ll still find the red and black animal print banquettes, the zebra-striped walls, the chrome and black lacquer tabletops, tin ceilings, and whirring ceiling fans. But a few weeks ago, there was a change. And it was this change that brought me back to Jerry’s. I liked the change quite a bit. It comes from chef Eric Korsh, who cooked at Prune on and off for four years and also worked under Bill Peet at Café Des Artistes and with Terrance Brennan at Picholine. He’s a solid chef with a passion for Mediterranean fare, seasonal ingredients and a gift for pitch perfect seasoning, and he has made some nice changes to the menu.

Now, I know Jerry’s is not some white-hot new restaurant, with seven kinds of designer water, precious purse pedestals, a subterranean lounge or Eames chairs. But hey, we pretty much read about those every day. And I know that most of us just look at Jerry’s as a place for brunch, or lunch at the counter with The New Yorker (by the way, you must read Calvin Trillin’s piece about his wife Alice this week). But with Korsh in the kitchen, Jerry’s is also a damn good place for dinner. It’s a little bit Prune, a little bit Five Points, and a little bit original Jerry’s all wrapped into one. It’s a great place to hang with friends, as I did the other night, with Jane and Ginny, over a few beers and some very good food.

I was in need of the comfort of very good food the night I went to Jerry’s. I had a fierce hangover from way too much sake at Buddakan the night before, where I celebrated Jamie’s birthday while under the mistaken impression that I was still in my twenties. As I realized the next morning, this was no longer the case. I am not happy about this, but what are you gonna do? I arrived early, and ordered a Dos Equis, which I hoped would help m ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   


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