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“Jerry's- Closed Now”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Soho Moderate Good

e to start feeling slightly more human. It did. Ginny and Jane arrived shortly after my first cold sip, but I was still not really capable of much conversation. I was lucky to be upright, and so I just looked over the menu, listening and nodding as they filled me in on their friend’s new baby named Ruby. She sounded adorable. But just the thought of a screaming baby was hurting my head. I drank a bit more of my beer, and slowly I came back to life.

The food also went a long way to boosting my mood. I was very impressed with the beet tartare—diced beets molded into a sort of hockey puck shape set over juicy tart grapefruit supremes tossed with jalapeño and olive oil. I loved the fact that there was some true kick and real life to it. This food was not lazy, it was working. A simple salad of grilled shrimp, hearts of palm, and ripe avocado ($10) was also quite lively, tossed with crunchy jicama and spicy radishes and equal amounts of lime and honey to balance sweet and the tart. But the crispy fried calamari and zucchini ($11) should have been crispier and hotter, though I did like the accompanying smoky salsa verde dipping sauce and spicy radish salad. A bit of the Prune training shows up in dishes like tender braised leeks with chopped egg in a red wine vinaigrette ($9), and a special of chicken liver on toast, a killer mousse that was smooth, creamy, aggressively seasoned, and rich as all get out, on simple slice of Pullman toast. But my favorite starter was a crock of baked salt cod brandade ($11)—whipped salt cod folded in with supple slices of fish, laced with loads of garlic. I swiped a crostini with a heaping forkful and was a happy girl all over again. I ordered another beer.

Korsh shows off his talent for technique by tweaking Jerry’s classics like the crispy brick chicken with sautéed spinach, whipped potatoes and chimichurri sauce. What used to be a sad par-fried bird is now a stunning specimen of poultry—meltingly moist meat under a tight crispy skin ($19). The burger has stayed pretty much the same—nice and fat—but it’s now served on onion brioche ($16). He’s also added his own Mediterranean spin to new plates like a terrific Moroccan salmon, marinated in harissa, then grilled to a glossy pink perfect medium rare with a spicy crust, and planted on a bright and tangy creamy yogurt sauce with a salad of roasted cauliflower and briny green and black olives ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   


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