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“A Voce”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Italian	Murray Hill	Moderate	Great

sionally prepared, it also very much seems homemade, like Carmellini has a crew of old wrinkly Nonnas in the kitchen in headscarves and aprons, rolling pasta, stirring gravy, curing salami, braising meats, and yelling in Italian at eachother and everyone around them. But no, there are no Nonnas in the back. As I said, I have looked. But taste Carmellini’s plump and lovely Meat Ravioli ($23), in a simple sweet pulpy tomato sauce, a recipe based on a dish from his dearly departed grandmother, and you may start to weep. And to think we almost didn’t try them!

Indeed, we hadn’t ordered the ravioli, but my friend Scott Feldman, who was in the dining room and seated nearby, had. When I walked over to say hello, he and his girlfriend Jodi Sue had barely touched them. I asked them why they weren’t eating. They said they were full, that they had just come from a benefit, but they said the ravioli were great. I think I may have started to drool because in seconds Jodi Sue offered me her leftovers. I hesitated for a moment, wondering if I could really walk away from a table with someone else’s leftovers and then I realized, of course I can, I have no shame. And I wanted those ravioli. And so I took them. Yes, I walked (well, jogged) away from their table with their half-eaten bowl of ravioli. The waiters were staring. Scott shouted after me: “She stole our ravioli! Stop her!” Julie, Kathy and Helen were a little confused watching me run back to our table carrying a bowl of someone else’s ravioli, while being screamed at by Scott Feldman, but when I sat down and presented the prized pasta, they were very pleased with the loot. And thanks to Scott and Jodi Sue’s generosity, we had a chance to experience the ravioli love of Carmellini’s grandmother. Over-stuffed with tender braised beef, pork, and veal, they were like kreplach from the gates of heaven. Take a bite and you may just feel the presence of your own grandmother (Nonna or Bubbe) standing over you, with her hand on around your shoulder saying, “Eat darling, eat.”

Desserts by pastry chef April Robinson are refreshing and light, a generous gift after such a nice big meal. Her citrus coppa ($11) made from juicy tangerine and grapefruit segments and sweet vermouth zabaglione tasted like warm sunshine in one spoonful and a refreshing breeze in another. Her chocolate panna cotta ($11) was a chocolate addict’s crack p ... [more, click below]

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Posted: April 16, 2006

Other restaurants in Murray Hill :
+ Breakfast at The Cafe at Country   + A Voce   + Country (Upstairs)   + Darna   + Penelope   

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