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“Quality Meats”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Great

chocolate rocky road, warm apple, key lime meringue, pecan bourbon chocolate chunk, coconut cream, and more. The pies are served in cute little fluted pie dishes and come with a huge dollop of schlag, scooped out tableside with a giant spoon, fresh from a cold steel tub. This schlag is brilliant—it is cold, sweet, super fluffy, almost buoyant whipped cream that is so devilishly delicious that it is really just asking for (a) a food fight, or (b) inappropriate diner-on-diner whipped cream behavior. (I’ll be honest, we engaged in (b).) There’s really nothing better than that schalg, but Colton’s house-made ice creams, by the scoop or the pint—literally, they bring a pint and a spoon to the table—are quite nice, though some were too sweet for me (blueberry pie and orange creamsicle), but I really had no attention span for that at the time. I was pretty much just wondering if we could get the schalg to go. (That would be yes. Just ask nicely.)

As I walked through the dining room after dinner, I was struck by the restaurant’s supporting pillars and walls—raw steel and weathered brick—magnificently distressed old bones, that for so many years laid undiscovered, hidden under layers and layers of paint and sheetrock. It took twenty-two years, and a courageous change, to uncover this dramatic architecture. As I hailed a cab and headed downtown, I thought about what might be hidden under the infinite layers that pad every one of us. Sometimes the process of peeling them off is painful, sometimes it’s terrifying, and sometimes you can’t even find a lose end to start pulling from. But my feeling is, you just keep at it. Because sometimes, even if it takes two decades, you hit the sweet spot.

Quality Meats is located at 57 West 58th Street, between 5th and 6th Avenues, 212-371-7777.

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Posted: May 7, 2006

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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