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“Sfoglia”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Italian	Upper East Side	Moderate	Great

and diced smoky pancetta ($10). If they can take the salt down a notch, the dish will work. Fava beans ($10) arrive unceremoniously but perfectly. It’s a dish that says: You know what? Fava beans are pretty amazing on their own. There’s no need for more than a bit of olive oil, some sea salt, a squeeze of lemon and a shard of Pecorino, so why bother with anything more? Indeed. How refreshing.

Pastas are also just plain old wonderful—they are truly al dente, firmer than most pastas in town. Capers are the high note in a glorious ragu of Apuglian lamb and tossed with chickpeas that coats pinky-finger sized ricotta cavatelli ($9/18). The pappardelle alla Bolognese ($10/20) tastes of hours and hours of simmering on the stove, an honest gravy for ruffled ribbons of beautiful house made pasta. But the star for me was a simple plate of spaghetti al limone ($8/16): long silky strands twisted up with loads of lemon and grated ricotta salata. It is like a warm bright splash of sunshine.

Entrees take a similar minimalist but exceptional path. Filet of Sole ($22) is served in roll ups, each wrap topped with a sassy Alfonso tapenade. The only issue with the sole was that it was baked in a clay dish that was scorching hot, and it continued to cook the fish as it sat on the table, turning it from glossy and moist to a bit rubbery. No complaints on the chicken al mattone ($21) though, a gorgeous half a chicken, seared and roasted so its well-seasoned skin was crispy, and the meat beneath it so moist and tender it squirted under the weight of my fork’s prongs. Desserts were simple—the correct end to a fantastic meal: a plate of homemade cookies, and a scoop of chocolate mint gelato.

And then he showed up.

We were seated at a table close to the bathrooms, and as he walked passed us, I felt him give me a look. I thought he was looking at someone behind me, but I was seated against a wall, so I guessed he might have been checking me out. How fun (and rare). A few moments later, he walked out of the bathroom, and as he passed our table he looked right at me and smiled. I was now blushing. Did I know him? I didn’t think so. He looked like Chris O’Donnell—light brown hair, blue eyes, great smile: all in all, fairly hot. Hmmm. Nope, I didn’t know him, but I thought I probably wanted to. So, I smiled too. He stopped and said hello. “Don’t I know you from somewhere?&rd ... [more, click below]

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Posted: May 21, 2006

Other restaurants in Upper East Side :
+ Sfoglia   + Zoe Townhouse   + Accademia di Vino   + T-Bar Steak and Lounge   + Parlor Steakhouse   + Le Caprice   

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