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“North Fork Table and Inn”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Suburbs	Moderate	Great

h;need I even say this?—were quite awesome. Some of them, like the coconut tapioca and the buttermilk panna cotta, will ring familiar bells from Claudia’s days at Gramercy Tavern and her cookbook, The Last Course. Claudia’s peach cobbler is served upside down: buttery caramelized slices of rosy-pink edged peaches resting on little feet of buttery cobbler pastry with cream cheese (oh my) ice cream ($9). Her rustic apricot-cherry tart is so light it tastes almost spa-like, topped with chopped hazelnuts with a tart yogurt sorbet ($8). But there was nothing spa-like about the chocolate caramel tart, with caramel ice cream ($9), what Jamie brilliantly coined an adult Milky Way. It is an oversized shallow circular tart, the size of a small Frisbee, with a glossy layer of dark chocolate concealing warm salty caramel in the center that oozes out onto your fork as you slice into it. Caramel ice cream is just a crazy bit of excess that makes it ridiculous fun, what a dessert should be.

It was still raining when we left the North Fork Table and Inn. And as I write this, at my kitchen table in Greenport on a gray Sunday morning, with Jamie and Michelle in the living room reading the New York Times, the rain is still coming down, and I am thinking back to the first time I came to Greenport. It was about seven years ago now (a fact I cannot seem to believe), and my boyfriend at the time and I were visiting friends of ours in Sag Harbor and we ended up on their boat, heading to Sunset Beach for brunch. We jumped out of the boat to swim to shore and as we walked up to the restaurant I noticed a trail of blood on the sand. “Honey, I don’t mean to alarm you but it seems your leg is bleeding.” He looked down at the blood dripping down his shin, and shook it off, “Oh, hmm, well it’s just an ankle lac (he was trying to be cool about it), probably hit it on the prop of the boat.” But soon, after I tried to stop the bleeding with a Sunset Beach dinner napkin (I was trying to be very Florence Nightingale), we realized it was not just a surface cut, this one was deep. Reluctantly, he agreed that we should call an ambulance to get it sewn up. We waited on the beach together, laughing at the situation—my hand pressing hard against the cut to keep it from gushing too much—and soon an ambulance pulled up and took us not to a hospital on Shelter Island (they don’t have one), but by ferry to a place I ha ... [more, click below]

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Posted: June 4, 2006

Other restaurants in Suburbs :
+ Gaia in Greenwich CT   + North Fork Table and Inn   + Izakaya and the New Water Club in Atlantic City   + La Estacion (Fajardo, Puerto Rico) by special guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + The Lunch Truck at the North Fork Table and Inn   

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