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“The Little Owl”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Great

my first night there, the restaurant was already packed, which is a constant issue because the place has only 27 seats. Though small, it is a great looking little room—a cozy corner spot marked by blond wood, a tiny bar and tall wood-framed windows that open onto the kitchen. Despite its perpetual crowded state, Gabriel has a knack for hospitality and will make you feel like sticking around even when the wait is over an hour and the humidity threatens to melt you to a puddle within thirty minutes. (On warm nights, the A/C in there needs a steroid injection.) You’ll have a glass of prosecco, or perhaps a cocktail (or five), and you’ll feel just fine.

On that first night, with my friend David, we started with the pan-roasted sardines ($8), silvery and pungent fillets dressed with a frisky lemon and chile vinaigrette and a marvelous salad of roasted cauliflower and snow peas. Then came the gravy meatball sliders ($9)—an appetizer that caused a wave of joy in the restaurant similar to one in the bleachers out at Shea. As they were set on our table, guests in every one of the restaurants 27 seats stood up and oohed and aahed and promptly signaled their waitress to order them. The sliders are served in mini homemade garlic Parmesan buns, one jolly saucy veal-beef-pork meatball per pup. People, these are the meatball’s answer to the pig in the blanket; they are delicious and way too much fun.

The pork chop ($19) is a signature dish and its size alone is quite impressive; it is prehistoric in girth. But it’s not all about the size. This big boy is tasty too. It is juicy and smacked with flavor, and is plated with creamy butter beans the size of quarters drawn in Parmesan butter and wild dandelion greens dressed with lemon and olive oil. Could not be simpler, or better. (If you have a dog, he will love you forever if you share your leftovers.) The grilled New York strip steak ($25) is also a mammoth portion of beefy buttery amply seasoned meat, served with quick sauté of radicchio, pancetta and balsamic that is shamelessly bold. If you are a fan of quiet little flavors this is not the steak for you. This one is a big bossy baritone.

The second night at The Little Owl, with my friend Dan, was less of a carnivore’s evening, but no less enjoyable. We started with a bowl of ricotta cavatelli ($11), tender little pinky fingers of light and fluffy ricotta dumplings buoyed by a tomato b ... [more, click below]

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Posted: July 10, 2006

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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