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“Trestle on Tenth”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Chelsea	Moderate	Good

nutty Swiss cheese (but no holes!), cut on a Girolle so it is ruffled at the edges. There was also air-dried Beef, sopressata, speck, and a small dish of sheep’s cheese mixed with butter that is good enough to eat off a spoon, or any other thing (or person) it happens to find its way on to. So, have yourself a platter of meats and cheeses, order a glass of wine (their Gruner Veltliner was perfect) or pint of beer (an Allagash White would work nicely as well), and then look over the menu and unwind, while perhaps revealing a story or two about your day to your friends.

The menu is modest in size; so it won’t take you long to figure out your eating strategy. A table of four can easily get to all of Trestle’s greatest hits. I’d start with the house cured the gravlax of arctic char served with a dollop of horseradish cream, several strong slices of dark brown bread and a julienned radish salad ($13.50). The fish is nicely cured and silky in texture and the accompaniments are right on—simple and classic. While the char was great, my favorite appetizer was the crepinette of pork and cabbage with wilted lambs’ quarter (a green). Just in case you are wondering, a crepinette really has nothing to do with a crepe. It’s a small patty of pulled braised pork shoulder sautéed up with cabbage that’s tucked inside a melting wrapper of caul fat shaped like a hamburger. If it were served at Shake Shack, the line would stretch to the Hudson River.

I also loved a simple butter lettuce salad ($10.50)—fluffy crisp lettuces dressed with buttermilk, speckled with bits of bacon and herb cheese. Frogs legs didn’t really excite me though, served with a lemony pile of frisee. They weren’t bad as much as just rather ordinary.

On every occasion I have eaten at Trestle I have had the roasted chicken ($21). And I urge you to do the same. It is uncommon, I know, to go nuts for chicken, but lately I feel like chicken is the star of so many menus (have you had the one at The Little Owl or the one at The Harrison? Both are the Prada of poultry.) So, let’s talk about Ralf’s chicken shall we? It’s roasted so its golden skin is crispy, and its meat is moist and full of flavor, not flabby and bland. But it comes with a little surprise—a fabulous fresh wrapped cabbage roll, stuffed with minced chicken that has changed my feelings about stuffed cabbage forever. (Aft ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 13, 2006

Other restaurants in Chelsea :
+ Matsuri   + La Bottega   + Tia Pol   + Bombay Talkie   + Cookshop   + D'Or Ahn: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Buddakan   + Crema   + InTent: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Trestle on Tenth   + Klee   + El Quinto Pino   + Socarrat   + Txikito   + Co. (Company)   

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