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“The Tasting Room”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Soho	Moderate	Good

squo;s quite nifty, I am not a huge fan of this technique. In general, I prefer the real sear and caramelization that happens when food hits a hot pan. Many chefs love sous vide, but in general I am a fan of braising and roasting, not bagging and boiling. But I am not too proud to admit when I am wrong. And in this instance, sous vide does do wonders for that chicken leg, which is succulent, buttery and moist, served stuffed with corn and turnips and dressed in a rich and luscious sauce made from foie gras. It’s a home run.

However, I didn’t think that sous vide was the right technique for a Tamworth pork loin ($26), which was rendered too soft and too flabby. Though it was served with lovely, picture perfect carrots and a jammy dose of onion confit ($26), I felt like I could remove my teeth and eat it with my gums. The Snowdance farm chicken breast ($28), however, with creamy ricotta dumplings and tomato sauce that was more like a smoky chunky romesco, was quite nice.

The other night when Jamie and I visited, we started with a few cocktails ($11 each)— a Moscow Mule (fresh ginger beer, lime, and vodka), and a Rickey (lime, sugar, tequila), before we got around to dinner. And as we were ready to move on to wine (the list is practically all domestic) our appetizers arrived, just on time. The Jack Mackerel escabeche was bright and frisky—a real zigzag of flavors: sour, tart, sweet, pungent all ricocheting around each other. It was served with a glossy swordfish tartare, plated on zippy, lemon-pickled Kirby cucumbers—crunchy and piquant and a great vehicle for the tartare. More, please. It was fabulous. Colin’s Peconic bay razor corn chowder ($11) was a beautiful farewell to summer corn. A silken soup was showered generously with sweet kernels and slivered shallots, like confetti for the clams. For our main courses, we went with two fish dish dishes. The cobia fillet ($15/26), I am sorry to say, was disappointing. While the fish was cooked nicely, the skin was crunchy, dry and almost leathery. It was odd. But I loved its accompaniment—a creamy haze of white sweet potatoes and a mound of sharp mustard greens. We both preferred the local triggerfish—a firm, moist white-fleshed fillet that was served in an creamy emulsion of lemon and butter dotted with cherry-red aji dolce chiles and braised escarole ($17/30).

With the larger space, The Tasting Room now has a pastry chef, Samir ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 1, 2006

Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   

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