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“Eleven Madison”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Flatiron	Break the Bank	Great

d a bit of pop—crispy tomatillos. The fish was spectacular, but the Fischer Farm’s suckling pig confit just blew it out of the water. This piggy was a beauty. Served pressed down into a slim rectangle, it actually resembled a chocolate brownie, which was slightly strange, but who cares. It could have been shaped like a tennis racket and I would have devoured every last string. I don’t know how he gets his pig to taste this way—so soft, so seductively piggy, so head-spinningly good, but I’d like to learn. The pig brownie is crusted in a crispy skin that I nibbled with my fingers and swiped through a sweet-spicy jam of plum chutney warmed up with five spice jus. This is what I mean by food that is sophisticated and thought out. There was nothing much on that plate—some confited pig, a bit of chutney. It was enough to make you appreciate the flavors, and nothing to distract you.

Desserts are still under the care of Nicole Kaplan, who is one of my favorite pastry chefs in the city, probably because I love the fact that she makes really good, well-balanced desserts that strike to the heart of your happy place. That night, we had a sheep’s milk yogurt cheesecake, that was silky and creamy, and a black mission fig tart with a red wine and goat cheese ice cream that were swirled together to miraculous effect.

Since my evening had started with cocktails and moved on to include copious amounts of wine from Clark Kent the sommelier, I felt far from an adult as I tried to navigate my way out of the restaurant teetering on a pair of Manolos I borrowed from my friend Diana (and seem to have conveniently forgotten to return). I’m not used to three-inch heels, especially after so much wine. But I planned ahead, knowing I would want to walk home; I had a pair of flip flops in my purse. Once I cleared the revolving door and said goodnight to Steven, I crossed the street and took a seat on a bench in Madison Square Park and changed out of my fancy shoes. I flip-flopped my way home, glad to have played the part of a grown up for a few hours, but just as happy to be back to my real self.

Eleven Madison Park is located at 11 Madison Avenue, corner of 24th Street, 212-889-0905, www.elevenmadisonpark.com.

 

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Posted: October 9, 2006

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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