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“Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Flatiron	Moderate	Good

the braised rabbit empanadas ($12), which are so doughy that all you taste is bread and none of the flavors on the inside.

 

By now you've already heard about the Prairie Butter ($10), which actually has little to do with butter. In fact, it's dairy free, though it is far from vegan. It is a buffalo femur bone that is split down the middle and roasted with chile and onions and served with piping hot, just-grilled camp bread-think puffy slices of pizza dough. While the marrow flavor can at times be obscured by the intense flavor of the salt and the chiles, when you get the right bite, is hot and meaty, and tastes like pan juices from searing a really good steak in butter and herbs. Mop it up with that hot camp bread. Yeah, baby.

 

Larger plates are oversized, in both flavor and portion, so if it's petite plates with precious delicate nuance you're after, look elsewhere. Take The Tomahawk Chop for instance, which was a spectacle similar to the recent big boned beef I had at Country. This slab is cut straight from the ribcage of the cow and had an 18-inch bone as an appendage. The beef is wet-aged for 21 days, then dry-aged for 28 days, and then peppered, rubbed, seared and roasted on the rib bone so the meat swims in its own juices. The chop is accompanied by a grilled Australian lobster tail, a couple of succulent seared scallops the size of hockey pucks and a monster-sized mound of smoked yukon gold potatoes so high you could throw a fastball off of it. This dish is said to serve two but it can easily serve four and while we loved it, the price tag was startling. The server, who was quite interested in giving us every detail of the menu and of how to approach and order from said menu, left out the little fact that this market price dish was $125. Sticker shock is putting it mildly. When a dish is going to cost you over a hundred dollars, it might be nice to be told in advance.

 

On the more affordable spectrum, go for the garlic-stuffed beef tenderloin that truly speaks to the tender half of that word. It's also a big boy portion that would be a Quick Draw McGraw favorite for sure. It comes with an order of Western plaid hash-a fevered mess of fried shoestring potatoes topped with braised red and green cabbage, sautéed with garlic, red onion, red bell pepper and red wine ($34). But one of my favorite entrees was actually a fish dish-the grilled whole Colorado trout ($25) had f ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 23, 2006

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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