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“Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Flatiron	Moderate	Good

lesh so sweet and flaky, I could barely stop eating it, but did so that I could concentrate on the accompanying succotash, made from corn, sweet potatoes and langoustines cooked down with bacon for that added hit of smoke that makes everything taste better.

 

The seared monkfish ($24) was firm and almost too sturdy, and came in a "spicy" posole stew (made from hand-made posole Love sources from a woman in New Mexico) that wasn't nearly spicy enough for me, though it was garnished with some amazing rendition of lobster that Love calls lobster bacon: lobster poached in veal stock, soaked in bacon fat and fried in peanut oil-that should be illegal considering what it will do to your arteries (and your hips).

 

The duck breast is described on the menu as crispy, and while I loved the texture (nice and moist) I didn't find it crispy at all, though it does come with a very crispy Rosti-a tangle of shredded potato and manchego cheese. The pork tenderloin ($26), which was perfectly cooked, gets rubbed with a coarse grind of coffee and cocoa and comes piled up with crispy fried onions and another pitcher's mound of those smoked Yukon potatoes. But the red deer chops ($31) come with the most indulgent side dish of all-a copper crock pot of gloriously gooey mac ‘n cheese, made from silky orzo pasta, no elbows in here. For a little more fun and added texture, Love tops the mac off with a few polenta-crusted deep-fried baby artichokes. It's killer. I'd like to see those fried artichokes at the bar, with a smoky chile mayo for dipping. I'd also recommend ordering a side of the ricotta dumplings ($8). These firm but fluffy fritters are greaseless and have a sneaky spicy kick to them, a great balance to the sweetness of the cheese.

 

Sadly, though, desserts need some work and are not worth the calories. We had a huckleberry and pear crisp that was basically stewed fruit topped with some uncooked oats, and a chocolate chip cookie ice cream sandwich fashioned from two cookies that were so hard we could not cut into them to eat the ice cream sandwich. We tried teeth, we tried knives, we could have asked for the buffalo femur bone saw I suppose, but nothing worked. Finally, we disassembled it and broke the cookie into hunks with our bare hands and spooned the ice cream on top of the cookie pieces. Instead of desserts, have another round of Margaritas, especially the one infused with ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 23, 2006

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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