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“Ola-- Closed”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Latin/Mexican Tribeca Moderate Good

After leaving Chicama and Pipa, I wondered where chef Douglas Rodriguez would land. I was not thrilled that it was the far east 40s, a barely breathing culinary wasteland with vital signs sustained by Scott Conant’s L’Impero, and little else. But Rodriguez has turned this comatose, food-deprived neighborhood around, giving it a heartbeat with his savvy brand of Latin-centric fare. At OLA (Of Latin American), a lively new hot spot with a boisterous bar, the East 40s feels more like the East Village, as sexy young things sip frozen saffron-citrus margaritas ($9), the brain-freeze cocktail of choice, and minty-fresh, hangover-certified mojitos ($9). Take my word for it, these suckers are worth that aching, fuzzy head, get me a cheeseburger deluxe day after feeling.

 

After soaking in cocktails, order some tapas. Try a plate of Oysters Rodriguez (fat, crispy fried oysters on fufu—bacon laced mashed plantains, $12), the Killer Dates (bacon wrapped dates stuffed with almonds and cabrales, $8), and don’t miss the Mystery Meatballs ($12), Rodriguez’s haute take on high school lunch made from succulent Kobe beef instead of actual mystery meat. They were, excuse me please, balls from heaven. I also loved the Macha ceviche ($12) made from buttery Chilean red lip clams in a perky green sauce made from parsley, green tomatoes, and cilantro. If you crave Pure Protien (or Dr. Atkin’s approval) order the simply mahhhhvelous lamb combo— a pair of sweet, tender chops served over braised lamb shank with a feta and chile salsa ($29). Life in the far east 40s just got a lot better.

 

OLA, 304 East 48th Street (1st and 2nd), 212-759-0590

 

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