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“Papatzul”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Latin/Mexican Soho Moderate Good

fresh chunks of ripe avocado, and a little dice of red onion.

For dinner, we had several entrees to share. The first was a budin al pasilla ($18), a tortilla casserole layered with black beans, pasilla chiles, shredded chicken, and thick crema served in a terra cotta cazuela. It’s sort of like a Mexican lasagna and it’s what I imagine mothers all over Mexico City serve for Sunday supper. The flavors were fabulous—rich pasilla chiles braised down to a sauce that was spicy but in a soft warm way, not in a fiery blow-smoke-out-your-ears way. My only problem with the dish was that the shredded chicken was quite dry. I am not sure why Thierry doesn’t use dark meat which I think would help make keep it moist. We also went for a fish special of the day ($M/P)— thick fillets of silky sea bass cooked in tomatoes, chiles, potatoes and peppers in a Vera Cruz style was quite simple, but also amazing in its layered flavors. If I had been given a pile of fresh warm corn tortillas, I would have made my own fish tacos.

The duck enchiladas, as I mentioned earlier, are a dish that you’ll think of and crave days after you’ve left the restaurant. Served in a puddle of dark, rich mole made with almonds, chiles and chocolate and about 25 other ingredients ($18), these corn tortilla crepes are filled all the way up with braised duck and crowned with crema. We passed the enchiladas around, swiping more bites when possible, and were tempted to lick the mole clean from the plate when we were done. We refrained, and instead just licked our fingers.

As we headed out late in the night, we passed the table of 15. They were still eating and drinking, and baby was still sleeping. I wonder if years from now, that little peanut will be all grown up, a young man living in the city, who has a mysterious and constant craving for duck enchiladas in almond mole. Hopefully someone will be good enough to steer him in the right direction—to Papatzul.

Papatzul is located at 55 Grand Street, corner of West Broadway, 212-274-8225.

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Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   


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