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“The Waverly Inn”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Great

his: “How can you write a review of a restaurant where no one can eat at?” He’s right. How can I? Well, I guess because I want to, and because I do feel it is part of my job to keep up on the latest restaurant world has to offer, and this certainly qualifies. And I guess I also have some faint hope that the Waverly’s policy will change and that the restaurant will open its doors to all who’d like to come in and stay for dinner, as I did last week with Jamie, Adrienne, and Susie (after a phone call to the chef, John DeLucie, who is, in full disclosure, a friend).

The Waverly Inn was my first choice of where to take Susie—one of my closest friends who’s been living and working in Rome for the past year—for our reunion dinner; we hadn’t all been together since our trip to Italy in October. I wanted something cozy and fun with a buzz, and I wanted it to serve great food of the sort she might not find in Rome. The Waverly, I thought, would be the perfect choice. And for once, I was right.

We walked in from the cold and into the low-ceilinged bar room, an English tavern-styled space that was packed with wall-to-wall with beautiful people who spent most of their time looking around at other people wondering who was more famous and/or important than they. We chatted a bit in the holding pen/bar and were then escorted to a four-top in front of an old marble fireplace in the main dining room. We ordered a bottle of wine from a list that ranges from $40 to $2000 a bottle (We had a $50 Crozes Hermitage) and perused the menu, and noticed the following phrase at the bottom of the cream colored page: “All drinking and cooking water is reverse osmosis.” I’d never seen this on a menu before, and we summoned our waiter, a handsome chap who looked like Maxwell, for an explanation. “Reverse osmosis is a filtration system that basically removes all the bad stuff from the water and then puts the good stuff back in,” he said. “Wow, that’s great,” Susie said. “But wouldn’t it be nice if we could reverse osmosis our bodies and our bosses?” she asked, smiling as she bit into a warm biscuit (and then moaned). Yes. If only.

To keep the good stuff going in the body, chef John DeLucie, who was most recently the chef at La Bottega and previously ran the kitchens at the Soho and Tribeca Grand Hotels, offers simple American fare, beau ... [more, click below]

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Posted: February 11, 2007

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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