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“Fireside”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Midtown	Moderate	Good

MY DINNER AT FIRESIDE

In 1994, a restaurant opened that would change the world of food as it was once known. It would make it tastier, racier, livelier, and more often than not, smaller. This restaurant was not located in a glitzy palace in Midtown, nor was it in the hands of Daniel Boulud, Jean Georges, Eric Ripert, or some other critically acclaimed culinarian. It was a modest neighborhood spot, often found with doors thrown open to the street, located on a sleepy stretch of First Avenue. In the kitchen was a small, stocky firecracker of a guy with a huge personality. That man was Sam DeMarco and that restaurant was First.

To be sure, First was not a laboratory of new fangled culinary technique, but it was an incubator for fun. Indeed, no one went to First without having a blast, the vibe being a product of a precise combination of Tiny ‘Tinis (miniature Martinis served in bulk) and Sammy's jolly good eats. DeMarco became known far and wide for his Lollipop Buffalo wings-plump, meaty pops slicked with buttery heat worthy of tears of joy and pain. And then there were his juicy mini burgers, his over-stuffed mini tacos, and I seem to remember some great swordfish creation. Sammy was a master of fun, and First was his own personal amusement park of food and drink. The ride lasted a solid ten years until First lost its lease and shuttered in 2004. I feel a Lollipop Buffalo Wing-shaped plaque should be mounted somewhere on that façade in his honor. 

Since then, Sammy has worked on some other solid projects-Merge, District-and has done some growing up. He has since married and had a baby. With his new-found adulthood, he's opened Fireside, a $3 million restaurant in the Omni Berkshire Place, a rather glitzy, rather mature hotel in Midtown. While the digs are quite civilized-20-foot ceilings, soothing lighting, polished floors, winged arm chairs, tufted leather sofas, crown moldings, and grand crystal chandeliers-the food has not changed all that much. Sammy's message in his cooking is still the same-eating should be good fun. It should be something that makes you smile, have a laugh, and relax.

Kathy and I checked out Fireside last week after a screening of Fox Searchlight's "Waitress"-written, directed and starring Adrienne Shelly, who was tragically murdered after the movie's completion in her West Village apartment. The movie, which also stars Keri Russell, Cheryl Hines and Jeremy Sisto, was sweet, s ... [more, click below]

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Posted: April 2, 2007

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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