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“Provence”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	French	Soho	Moderate	Great

erent than my first taste of cornmeal fried ringlets with pulpy tomato sauce. The squid in this case is naked, not breaded, and sautéed in garlic and olive oil and garnished with currants and pine nuts. While I liked the preparation—the squid was shockingly tender—I think the dish could use a little lift in flavor, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon, a hit of chile, or maybe even the salty punch of a few capers.

But the coil of meaty, spicy Merguez on Craig’s plate was flawless, resting on a fluffy bed of cous cous lavished with briny Nyon olives, little nuggets of soft goat cheese and a gloss of harissa heat ($10). This should be on the brunch menu, topped with fried eggs.

In between appetizers and entrees, we did some gift giving, picture taking, and some more toasting. My dad had forgotten his digital camera and instead was using a disposable he’d gotten at the corner deli. They do come in handy. But soon, with all the picture taking, toasting, and gift giving, it was getting to be like a scene from a long lost Bar Mitzvah. I was expecting someone to get hoisted into the air on a chair. Luckily everyone stayed grounded. Dinner had arrived.

After consuming enough beef for a small country the week before at Hill Country, Craig and I had both decided to have fish. He had the halibut—a buttery golden seared hunk set over a team of asparagus that were lined up like a picket fence on the plate, and dressed in a preserved lemon butter sauce that was more like a beurre fondue. I had the mahi mahi, quite moist and seriously flavorful, served with a bracing tapenade and grilled leeks. But we were both eyeing my Dad’s roasted leg of lamb, served with a colorful summer squash ragout. He noticed, and sliced us each a taste (yummy), which we gladly accepted.

We didn’t have to choose a dessert, because we had ordered a cake, a chocolate and raspberry layer cake that was lit up with candles (just a few, not 66). My Dad closed his eyes, made a wish, and blew out his candles. The cake was sliced and served. It was moist and decadent and required that second helpings be distributed. What remained was boxed for my Dad to finish the next night (or knowing him, with coffee in the morning).

As we left, my Dad thanked us for taking him and went on about how perfect the meal had been and how much he had loved the restaurant. I agreed. But while Provence was the perfect plac ... [more, click below]

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Posted: July 9, 2007

Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   

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