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“T-Bar Steak and Lounge”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Upper East Side	Moderate	Great

uld prolong my life.” “That’s very manipulative,” Steven said. “I like it.”

The last supper conversation lasted well into our main courses, which were quite nice and very consistent in their quality. I hadn’t been feeling so great so the roast chicken called to me ($23), but it’s also a dish I find myself being drawn to more and more on menus. For all the Berkshire Pork, Waygu beef, and New Zealand lamb out there, I’m most impressed lately with the way chefs at places like Shorty’s.32, Little Owl, Red Cat, Market Table, and The Harrison are cooking these humble birds. This one is a total A-Lister as well, a moist bird from Gianonne Farms in Canada, with an almost Kentucky-fried skin, that was sadly served with a rather dry spongy sage stuffing. Loved the bird. The stuffing, not so much.

Glen’s Veal Schnitzel Holstein ($25) was robed in crunchy golden breadcrumbs and served with a sunny side egg on top (brilliant), set in a sauce of butter, lemon, capers, and parsley that I wanted to mop up with some bread, or even my sleeve. Steven’s grilled yellow fin tuna was pretty simple, but also pretty good. It’s seared rare so it maintains its ruby center and was plated with cherry tomatoes, olives, capers, and lemon, almost like a Nicoise salad without the salad ($36).

And yes, the carnivores (Shameless, Cutlets, and Craig, too) had their steaks. The center of the menu is devoted to the cow with your choice of filet (6 or 12 ounces), strip (16 ounces), rib eye (24 ounces), T-bone (26 ounces), and Porterhouse for two (48 ounces. Cutlets got the rib eye and Shameless and Craig went for the strip. Craig dug in and sliced off a piece for me. It was serious. Wow. There was the right char, a good chew to the pink meat, and a great rich, meaty flavor. As I ate, I looked over at the experts. They were huddled together like Tiger Woods and Steve Williams. First, they marveled, waxing poetic about the sear. “I love the sear and the sizzle on this meat,” said Shameless. “The Diamond marks are just gorgeous.” Then they cut in, revealing that rosy cheek-flushed color that is the sign of a perfectly cooked steak. Then they chewed. And yes, they shared. “Just cut me off that little end piece there,” I heard Cutlets say to his new BFF. Aww. They leaned in and discussed. They ate more. There were murmurings of dry age and prime. Then Cut ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 29, 2007

Other restaurants in Upper East Side :
+ Sfoglia   + Zoe Townhouse   + Accademia di Vino   + T-Bar Steak and Lounge   + Parlor Steakhouse   + Le Caprice   

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