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“Tailor”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Soho	Moderate	Good

to try it all. You know even if you don’t love it, you’ll have a fun ride.

And I did have fun eating at Tailor for the most part though I must say that I had an issue with the style of service. The waitstaff, while trained to the T and I imagine know even the molecular structure of every ingredient on the plate, are too formal. The use of the word “we” should be eliminated from waiter’s vocabulary all together. “Will we be having sparkling, tap, or flat water tonight?” As Bruni wrote a few weeks ago in the Times, I find this “WE” thing just a tad too pretentious. Unless you’re sitting down to join me for that water, just ask what I want. It’s okay. I’ll let you know. It’s a small point, especially in light of the flawless service this team of waiters offers, but it’s still a bit much in my opinion.

In any case, with respect to the food, I was really impressed. Pink slices of roasted duck ($15/$25) were supple and almost silky in texture, set over a mound of spaghetti squash in a puddle of dashi broth steeped with raisins that was brilliant. Duck loves the flavor of fruit and this broth was infused with the essence of this musty-sweet-earthy fruit. How clever.

Perhaps nothing is as memorable on the menu at Tailor as the pork belly with butterscotch miso, green apple, and whiskey-braised artichokes ($16/$24). After Steven took the first bite, he put his fork down and said, quite clearly and confidently: “This is the most elegant pork belly dish I’ve ever had.” (Steven is in the business, and he’s someone whose opinion is quite well-informed.) And I agree. It’s not big, heavy and clunky as it often can be. (Though, to be honest, anyway it looks, it’s always darn good.) The pork belly in this case is brined and slow-cooked until it turns a sort of pale shade of rose, then sliced thin, like sashimi might be, and fanned out over a generous pour of wonderfully caramel-like butterscotch miso. It’s luscious and delicate, and when combined with that sticky miso—think a hoisin sauce crossed with caramel—and fine slices of tart green apple that give your mouth a shock of POW! Well, it’s a sensation. I hope that Mason considers adding a miso butterscotch pork belly bun to a bar menu downstairs. While I have others for sure, this is one of my favorite dishes of 2007.

His poached ... [more, click below]

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Posted: November 19, 2007

Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   

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