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“Lucy-- Closed”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Latin/Mexican	Flatiron	Moderate	Good

Chef Andrew DiCataldo must be getting a complex. The man is the king of leftover restaurants. Two years ago, when Douglas Rodriguez left Patria to open Chicama, DiCataldo filled his shoes and stepped up (quite ably) to head chef position, earning three-stars from The New York Times in his own right. And when Rodriguez left Chicama to open OLA, DiCataldo was again called in, by owner Phil Suarez, to take over the kitchen. Talk about a relief pitcher. But, to his credit, he closes the game with a win every time, so I am not complaining.

 

Lucy has been revamped since its Chicama days. It is now warmer, with a better bar set up and a cozy, arm-chair filled lounge up front. The dining room is swathed in white sheer curtains, with wood-beemed ceilings so it feels like a rustic, beachside hacienda designed by some relative of Ian Schrager.

The menu is a fun and festive assortment of Oaxacan snacks or antojiitos. While the Sope Sampler ($10) sounds terribly tempting, resist them. They are a big let down. Billed as corn masa cakes topped with assorted Mexican goodies like grilled shrimp in pipian rojo, black beans with queso fresco, and ricotta with tomatillo salsa and roasted vegetables, the cakes are dry and chalky, and the toppings are goopy and overcooked in the case of the mealy shrimp. Not fun. Instead, stick to other little nibbles that will allow the body to consume tequila in quantity, like quesadillas (the one stuffed with spicy chorizo and potato, $8, was my favorite), tacos (red chile pork with grilled pineapple and house smoked bacon was a star, $6), and a fresh, tangy guac that is the best I’ve had in a while ($10).

 

Main course are more ambitious and more delicious. Two standouts were the “Tablecloth Stainer”—a rock star of a mole—loud, brassy, and bold—served with tender chicken and pork ($22), and the house specialty, Barbacoa ($28), or Oaxacan barbecue. For this dish, lamb is first rubbed with chile paste, then wrapped in avocado, banana, and hoja santa leaf. At this point, the Barbacoa process resembles a body wrap I had at Bliss last week—but here’s the difference – I was not slow roasted until soft, juicy, and perfectly yummy. (Though my skin was quite silky, I must admit.) Seriously though, the lamb is a wonderful hunk of meat – intensely flavored, and tender to the point of being buttery, it is the sort of meat that makes you want to just eat with ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 27, 2003

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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