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“The Smith”

  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American East Village Moderate Good

of some sort, from the Happy Birthday—a cube of yellow cake with chocolate frosting scribbled with Happy Birthday on top and a candle (it can be your birthday every day), and a Pink Pussy Cat, a slice of red velvet cake with two scoops of strawberry ice cream. My favorites were the Caramel and Nuts, a sundae made form scoops of peanut butter ice cream studded with homemade peanut butter brittle, drenched in chocolate sauce and smothered in hot caramel, and the bread pudding sundae, made from hunks of warm brioche with drunken raisins, caramel ice cream and bourbon sauce. These are silly, messy desserts perfect for a few bites and then you’ll probably need to unbutton your pants. (Not that I did.)

What’s also quite nice about The Smith is that this is a restaurant built on hospitality. You’ve probably noticed this if you’ve been to their other restaurants Jane and Neptune Room, but in case you haven’t let me say that Jeff is the consummate front of house host who knows how to run a room and train a wait staff to understand that service and hospitality rest ultimately on their shoulders as much as his. And they seem to have inherited his infectious warmth. The service at The Smith is quite enthusiastic, attentive and in some cases almost overly bubbly. I think they must hand out Prozac at staff meal or something or perhaps they let every one have a turn downstairs at the wall. Do you know about what’s behind the wall? Maybe you do and you’re smiling now. Or maybe you don’t and you’re wondering what it’s about. Well. I’m sworn to secrecy but there’s a wall downstairs, somewhere near the restrooms, that’s got something very interesting (and racy) behind it. You’ll have to check it out to find out more for yourselves. It can be quite interesting. And that’s all I’ll say about that.

The only problem about The Smith is that it seems probably that Craig and I are probably moving to Brooklyn in a few months. And funny enough, our new apartment is near Smith Street. Craig has already found a Red Sox bar called Cody’s Ale House to call his own. But I’m thinking that we might need something called The Smith on Smith? Come on guys. At least think about it.

The Smith is located at 55 Third Avenue, between 10th and 11th Streets, 212-420-9800,

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