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“Merkato 55”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	MeatPacking	Moderate	Great

with the prices of appetizers; many of them are in the $15-$17 range. Then again, servings are quite ample and plates are made to be shared, so you’d do fine ordering one dish for every two people.

I was impressed with Merkato 55 for one last reason that has little to do with the food, the décor, or the service. This is a restaurant that passionately embraces the spirit of a continent that is as glorious as it is deeply troubled. There’s no shortage of heartbreaking tragedy and injustice in Africa, so the idea of celebrating this land, its people, and its cuisines, is quite compelling. Merkato lets you explore the barbecue of South Africa, the dumplings of Ethiopia and the chicken and peanut stews of Ghana. Dining there is like a great road trip of eating. Perhaps it will be what brings you to Africa one day for the real thing. Perhaps it will take me back there, too.

Merkato 55 is located at 55–61 Gansevoort St., near Greenwich Street, 212-255-8555, www.merkato55.com

 

 

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Posted: March 2, 2008

Other restaurants in MeatPacking :
+ Paradou   + Florent   + One   + Bivio   + Spice Market   + Ono   + 5 Ninth   + Fatty Crab   + Del Posto   + Morimoto   + Los Dados   + 5 Ninth   + Merkato 55   + Scarpetta   + The John Dory   + The Standard Grill   + Bill's Bar & Burger   

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