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“Hundred Acres”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Soho	Moderate	Great

the bedding of Satur Farms arugula—large leaves with an impressive peppery sharpness that tasted as though the farmers had grown it right next to a plot of chile peppers and let the leaves absorb their peppery bite.

A tea sandwich trio ($9) offered three different open-faced sandwiches: the first two—smoked fish and radish, tongue and ramp—are an old Jewish guy’s dream (and mine too). The smoked fish salad is something I’d like to take home in a half-pint container and have for lunch, spooned onto slices of black bread or an everything bagel. The third sandwich, of braised rabbit and hazelnut, was an inspired combination, the nuttiness of those toasted hazelnuts bringing out the sweetness of the pulled rabbit. What I liked about these sandwiches, which resemble oversized crostinis, was that the dark bread was soft and chewy, not grilled and crunchy, so there was no crumbly breakage and embarrassing mess.

Marc’s chef de cuisine at Hundred Acres is, once again, Joel Hough who hails from the South. His influence is found all over the menu, beginning with a plate of fried green tomatoes ($10) served with a paprika aioli. The shape of silver dollar pancakes, they’re breaded and battered so they’ve got a nice crunch that reveals a tangy juicy green flesh inside. Yum.

Main courses are always in flux with the market’s bounty, but not the burger ($18), which is a blessed constant on the menu. It’s a fantastic sandwich, a plump, grass-fed pup topped with sharp Goot Essa cheddar and a roasted Vidalia onion mayo that will have you bemoaning the use of ketchup and mustard after your first bite. Vidalia onion mayo is what every burger deserves. The yellowfin tuna ($23) was the sleeper star of our dinner. Tuna just never seems to really thrill me anymore. It’s usually fine, but never wows me. It’s just not the darling of a menu. But this tuna was. It was cooked perfectly—nice and pink and rare in the center and so moist it was almost like a steak with its juices running on the plate. It’s seasoned well enough alone but given a topper of sauce gribiche—onions, egg, gerkhins, and capers—and served with a side of fresh and snappy green beans coated in lemon and dill. It was a dish I’d like to have any and every summer night, and that would translate beautifully to a picnic lunch for leftovers.

Ditto the pasture-raised si ... [more, click below]

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Posted: July 6, 2008

Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   

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