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“Hundred Acres”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Soho Moderate Great

rloin ($26)—meat that’s raised with such care it doesn’t need more than a flame and salt, but Marc adds a bit of somethin’-somethin’ to the steak in the form of a basil and walnut pesto and a side of potato and squash gratin. What wasn’t finished could have easily made a great filling for a sandwich the next day. The most prized summer picnic dish of all time is, yes, you guessed it, fried chicken, and his is no short of a masterpiece. My fried chicken favorites used to be Blue Ribbon and Rack ‘n Soul, but to that list I’m glad to add the fried chicken at Hundred Acres. Meyer’s is Southern Fried (thanks again to Joel), with a batter so crunchy that your first bite through the robe of golden crust may be heard on Houston Street. Meyer serves his chicken with a little pot of honey (with accompanying honey-dipper) and a monster-sized wedge salad dressed in buttermilk and radishes. I looked around the table and every one of us was doing the same thing—licking honey off our fingers and gnawing at the little bits left on the bones to get every nibble possible. My feeling is that these recipes need to get out to the public so we can start cooking them at home. Marc has written a Brunch cookbook (with Peter Meehan) and he’s due for one on supper too. And you know what, whomever is making those desserts (all $7) had better be in that supper book too.

The fresh simplicity of dinner fare carries over to homespun dessert favorites like blueberry pie overflowing with dark sweet blueberries barely contained by a cage of a lattice top, a rhubarb crostada filled with fruit that’s tart and sweet and swaddled in buttery sugared pastry and topped with a cloud of fresh whipped cream, and a light and moist chocolate layer cake, served with homemade strawberry ice cream. That last touch—the addition of strawberry ice cream—for some reason really touched me. I don’t know why, but using strawberry instead of vanilla just seems sweeter, more authentic. The desserts are portioned generously (as is all the food here) so Seth, who’s wife is pregnant, wrapped a leftover piece to take home, Maureen, whose landlord is 83 and a chocolate lover took the other slice for him, and I took the rhubarb for, well, myself.

There was nothing that wasn’t delightful about our meal other than the noise level, which is being addressed in the next few weeks with sound absorption p ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in Soho :
+ Balthazar   + Savoy   + Blue Ribbon   + Lupa   + Public   + Kittichai   + Lure Fishbar   + Barmarche   + Porcupine-- CLOSED   + Ama   + La Esquina   + Jerry's- Closed Now   + The Tasting Room   + Papatzul   + Shorty's.32   + The Monday Room   + Ed's Lobster Bar   + Aurora   + Provence   + Tailor   + Hundred Acres   + Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen   + The Mott   + The Dutch   + Cherrywood, by Guest Reviewer Dara Pollak   


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