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“Delicatessen, By Guest Reviewer Julie Besonen”

  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Soho Moderate Good

r table was littered with buckets.

The chicken in a bucket turned out to be the best dish of the night. Marinated in buttermilk, the legs and thighs were encased in a bronze crust, the meat juicy, the portion generous. I didn't like the strangely spiced cole slaw it came with, but a chunk of jalapeno corn bread was as good as it gets, moist and studded with fiery, flavorful bits of pepper.

The caesar salad ($10) was the runner-up, the romaine fresh and crunchy, topped with white anchovies, capers, shaved parmesan and big croutons. Halibut tacos ($11), laced with guacamole and kimchee sour cream, were innocuous, but not anywhere near as dull as those Reuben fritters.

The Ovaltine pudding parfait ($8), a layering of milk chocolate and malt pudding and delectable chocolate pearls, was plenty for two to share and satisfying, especially with the brittle bite of the pearls.

We ended up spending nearly three hours at Delicatessen, and not because we were trying to stretch out the evening. Don't go when you're trying to make a movie. Think of it as a place to nosh and lounge pre or post-shopping (open for breakfast, lunch, brunch and late into the night), but not as a destination in itself.

Delicatessen is located at 54 Prince Street, at Lafayette Street, (212) 226-0211,

—Julie Besonen 

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“Delicatessen? I don't think so.”

The vaguely Asian accented New York comfort food offered here is abysmal on all counts and the spaced out wasted staff remind one of a "heroin chic" ad from the grunge era.

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