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“Buttermilk Channel”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | Brooklyn | Moderate | Good |
For instance, you might just spend the night at the bar with a glass of red wine (There’s a Brooklyn Merlot that’s pretty good actually), and a blistered Schaller & Webber bratwurst with warm sauerkraut and spicy mustard on a toasted roll ($10) and a skewer of Caputo’s wildly creamy handmade mozzarella balls (are they custard or are they cheese?) threaded with warm basil oil-soaked Italian bread, and drizzled with a warm anchovy vinaigrette ($5). Or you might stop in one night when you’re craving a burger and a cold pint (the bar offers about a half dozen brews on tap) and people-watch while pulling hand-cut fries from a crisp tangle on your plate, nestled next to your juicy burger, served on a soft roll, topped with grilled onions, house-made pickles and a layer of NY State cheddar ($11). Or maybe you’ll have a fresh juice cocktail, like the Fair Harbor, made with rum, ginger beer, lime and pomegranate and a platter of oysters, a board of Greenmarket cheeses with roasted grapes, local honey and country bread (3 for $10), or sample their charcuterie selection that includes and chicken liver mouse, grilled bacon or head cheese, all served under the charcuterie menu ($7-8 each). In any case, you’ll be content and well-cared for.
Or you’ll come in for dinner with a friend and order the soon-to-be-famous buttermilk fried chicken ($18)—moist white and dark meat pieces, wrapped in a crust of supreme golden crunch, served over cheddar waffles with a cool winter vegetable slaw. Craig and I shared the chicken a few weeks ago (finger-licking is sort of required), along with the bacon-wrapped brook trout ($19), a terrific pairing of this subtle, sweet fish with the more powerful flavor of salty smoky meat, served with a delicious set of silver dollar sized Johnnycakes. (The chef cooked in Rhode Island after all. He knows how to make Johnnycakes.)
In addition to the fried chicken, most folks (Craig and I included), are also going to have a vintage candy dish on their table filled up not with grandma’s sticky old candies but (blessedly) with maple-roasted almonds tossed with ... [more, click below]
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January 5, 2009
1:02.08 pm
Well, the author lives in Brooklyn, right? So it makes sense that she brings a local take. For instance, early on this blog seemed to favor downtown restaurants. (To be fair, the dearth of good places to eat uptown is another conversation.) The places recently reviewed are all generally within a few stops of Manhattan, though, and I for one appreciate the first-hand reporting on the borough. It's not like Manhattan is lacking in restaurant reviewers.