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“Braeburn”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Good

ok a cab home.) To my surprise, instead of a ghost town (Mondays are not the busiest of nights for restaurants), I found Braeburn to be pleasantly crowded with a friendly buzz. There was a group of men at the bar, a few couples already seated having appetizers, and families of four perusing menus. If it’s this busy on a Monday night at 7pm, then Brian and John-Paul have succeeded in doing what any restaurant aims to: develop a good local following.
We were seated at a table along the banquette in the dining room and started with a rhubarb margarita (for Kiri) and a non-alcoholic sparkling cider for me, while we looked over our options for dinner. Brian’s concise menu is a roadmap of spring’s crops with every dish showered with peas, fava beans, and asparagus. Even if the weather outside has been frightful, on the menu at Braeuburn, it’s 65 and sunny.

To start, have the hand rolled pici pasta ($11) that’s tossed with peas, hunks of smoky bacon, and a dollop of ricotta that looks like a spoonful of whipped cream atop a sundae. While I would have liked a bit more bacon to punch up the flavor profile, the pasta is beautiful, and the portion is big enough to share as an app or to have as a light dinner with a salad—like the one with roasted beets, Braeburn apples, spicy walnuts and goat cheese fondue ($10). There’s also a perfectly poached egg, frothed in a Parmesan foam and breaded in panko that you should by all means puncture and let run over a warm salad of pencil asparagus ($12). Florida shrimp are simply grilled, juicy and sweet, but a little too charred, and served over a fresh, zippy salsa fresca with just enough kick to make sure you’re paying attention ($13).

Like those heavenly biscuits served when you’re seated, the menu at Braeburn stays true to food that’s more honest and simple than overdressed and ratcheted up with bling. What’s also very attractive about the restaurant is its value. Entrée prices are kept in the mid-twenties (some are even teens, like the buttermilk fried chicken served on Wednesdays with collards and black eyed peas for $18), and the portions are substantial. You won’t leave Braeburn feeling hungry or ripped off. And that’s a nice feeling.

Wild striped bass is remarkably moist and served in a vivid tomato broth bobbing with fat briny olives, preserved lemon and asparagus. With the side of spring vege ... [more, click below]

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Posted: April 17, 2009

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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