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“Braeburn”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Good

table ragout (served in an adorable little pewter crock), it was a perfect supper. On the heavier side, he serves wonderful veal chops ($28) with a rich Madeira jus, roasted shallot jam and a spring fricassee of fava beans and mushrooms. Sirloin of lamb ($26), though not as tender as I’d have liked, comes with a bold ragout of crushed peas, chickpeas, mint, and spicy Merguez sausage that would be a welcome side dish at any dinner table. We added a side of herbed spaetzle to this dish—crisped up and mustardy and completely worthwhile.

Unfortunately, the menu does have one clunker. Monday night’s plat du jour, the macaroni and cheese with Vermont cheddar and Serrano ham ($16), was a disappointment. It’s flat, flavorless and lacks that sharp cheesiness that I crave in a macaroni n’ cheese. Instead, it’s a bit runny and is more like pasta and roux than a hearty portion of hot, bubbly and cheesy mac n’ cheese. It was also served room temperature, which was an issue with some of our entrees as well. Rather than piping hot, they arrive warm enough, but cool down too quickly. Perhaps the plates need to be kept warm to keep the food at the right temperature longer.

If you end your meal on a sweet note, you’ll be rewarded by desserts (all $12) by pastry consultant and beverage director Katherine Beto (wd-50, Per Se). We loved her vanilla doughnut holes—hot and fluffy freshly fried dumplings of dough that are served with a lemon verbena syrup that forms a glaze over the warm dough, and the almond cake with a tart yogurt sorbet that’s tastes like Pinkberry might if served at Per Se.

So, let me put my Dear Abby hat back on. If you’re looking for a place to take your parents to let them know you and your girlfriend are having a baby, if you’re seeking a good choice for a friend’s 40th, or if you’re just in search of a place to meet someone special for a drink, you now know where to go. And if you’re pregnant, good luck on the subway.

Braeburn is located at 117 Perry Street at Greenwich Street, 212-255-0696.

 

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Posted: April 17, 2009

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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