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“Aquavit”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | Midtown | Break the Bank | Off the Charts |
Chef-partner (and culinary heartthrob) Marcus Samuelsson introduced New York to his splashy brand of modern Scandinavian cuisine a decade ago at Aquavit, an elegant two-story restaurant housed in an historic Midtown townhouse, just a stone’s throw from the Museum of Modern Art and the shops of Fifth Avenue. After ten years and a facelift, the restaurant still has a sleek, sophisticated vibe, and the cuisine is even more spectacular. While ingredients like herring, lamb, salmon, caviar, and dill show up with regularity on this menu inspired by Scandinavia, the food here is more uniquely Samuelsson than anything else. What this means is that every dazzling plate is the result of careful, creative thought, combining textures, flavors, temperatures, ingredients, and cooking styles of France, Asia, and Sweden to achieve startlingly delicious harmony on the plate. A shot of smooth, citrus-tinged aquavit compliments dinner nicely, as does the impressive wine list.
If you want to try to cook in his avant garde style at home, pick up a copy of his gorgious new cookbook, Aquavit. Stay tuned for the debut of Riingo, his venture into sleek Japanese-American dining, set to open in New York City in early 2004.
Aquavit, 13 W. 54th St., b/w 5th & 6th Avenues, 212-307-7311.
REPRINTED FROM MY REVIEW IN THE MOBIL TRAVEL GUIDE
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