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“Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Italian West Village Moderate Good

s dab of stewed beef and mushroom inside. I also liked the artichoke and fontina tramezzini ($8.50), a crustless sandwich with artichokes absent of an overly-briny sting and the cheese mellowing them even further. The flavor of a free range Hudson Valley rabbit ($24.50) combined the slight smoke of the grill with the aromatic tinge of rosemary, though the tempuraed green beans on the side were a tad heavy on the oil.

Speaking of heavy, the orecchiette gratinate—a pasta casserole with black truffle, mushroom and cheese sauce ($35.50)--is as decadent as its price suggests, and only for the very hungry. The coppa Scuderia ($8.50), a sundae with hazelnut ice cream, walnuts and peanut butter, strikes the perfect sweet and salty balance.

Recently, on a beautiful afternoon stroll down Sixth, I was once again struck by the differences between father and daughter’s spots. I noticed Silvano’s crowd looking curiously, and wistfully over to Scuderia, perhaps remembering their days of youth. The bunch at Scuderia seemed to look back with ambition, maybe thinking, one day, when they’ve really made it, they’ll cross the street for a meal—without Mom and Dad picking up the check.

It reminded me of a quote from writer Joyce Maynard, that I’m sure will ring true to the Marchettos, and resonate with Andrea and her new family, too: “It's not only children who grow.  Parents do too.  As much as we watch to see what our children do with their lives, they are watching us to see what we do with ours.” I, for one, can’t wait to see the Strongbuzz family grow together.

Scuderia is located at 10 Downing Street, at Sixth Avenue, 212-206-9111, www.scuderianyc.com

—Kathleen Squires 

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