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“Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Italian	Midtown	Break the Bank	Great

People keep talking about the changing restaurant industry, how diners only want burgers or pizza, how they no longer want to pay top dollar for a high-end restaurant meal. Daniel Boulud opens a burger joint, and new restaurants hedge their bets by putting “bar” in front of their name. It makes sense that, when economic times are tough, comfort food would rule, but it doesn’t seem to be an ironclad way to bring in customers. And I can’t see the restaurant world thriving if everyone starts serving the same menu of bar food.

In contrast to the rumored death of the upscale restaurant, when I went to Marea, Michael White and Chris Cannon’s new Italian seafood restaurant, on a recent Wednesday night, I found a full house. Marea is making people show up and spend, even on a Wednesday night in the middle of summer, and there is good reason why. 



The restaurant occupies the old San Domenico space on Central Park South, and the contrast between the spaces shows that Marea has successfully updated the recipe for posh dining. The partners created an upscale, splurge-worthy place, banishing all the stiffness and formality usually associated with a destination restaurant. A few years ago I went to San Domenico, and it felt like both diners and staff were going through the motions, relying on the memory of the place rather than its current incarnation. The service was formal, the atmosphere moody and the food only passable. Marea is different. You’re going to like it.
As you enter, the long bar on your left makes it clear that you are welcome to enjoy drinks and plates at the bar – no need to be formally seated to try the food. Stepping down into the dining room, you see dark wood floors offsetting crisp white cloth covered tables, the wide windows’ sheer curtains drawn against the park view. The style is oceanliner chic – cool, open, somewhat impersonal. But the feeling in the room is warm. I was struck by the lack of pretense; people were openly enjoying themselves.

Sounds of happy chatter came up against those of clattering forks. I saw a large party laughing with their server, and over the course of the night I saw Chef White stopping at different tables to check in on his diners, making sure they were happy. This is not a gastronomic temple with a chef deigning to serve you and servers who can’t be bothered to smile. 



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Posted: July 19, 2009

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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