Google Ads

<< previous review   next review >>



  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out French East Village Moderate Good

Let’s get this out of the way right at the beginning: the burgers are not the thing at DBGB. Perhaps you’ve heard otherwise since there are three signature burgers at Daniel Boulud’s latest restaurant, a sprawling brewpub on the Bowery that’s encased in glass etched with the quotations of well-known chefs from Thomas Keller to Paul Bocusse. The thing is, quite frankly, there are better burgers in town. The one at The Spotted Pig, the one at Minetta Tavern and even the one at Brooklyn’s newest humble bistro, Watty & Meg, not to mention his very own lavish creation at DB Bistro. I am sorry to say that the ones Daniel is serving at DBGB are just not all that interesting. There’s the Yankee—a 6-ounce beef patty topped with ripe slices of tomato, and a ring of Vidalia onion, on a big sesame seed bun skewered with an Essex Street pickle and a side of fries ($14), and that burger would be fine if it were seasoned better and were juicier. But it’s just sort of your average patty, and nothing more. The Piggie takes that same ho-hum patty and dresses it up so it comes in at almost $20 (it’s $19). It’s topped with a saucy toupee of Daisy May’s bbq pulled pork with jalapeno mayo, and Boston lettuce on a cheddar cornbread bun with mustardy slaw and fries. The sandwich is tasty, but that’s because of the pork, not the burger. Ditto the Frenchie ($17), layered with Morbier, pork belly, arugula, tomato-onion compote on a peppered brioche bun with fries. It’s all about the toppings, not the burger.So, have a burger if you must, but for my money, I’d invest it in the lengthy and wonderful sausage section of the menu by chef charcutier Sebastien Loyzance. This is where you will find the most joyful eating.

There are 13 sausages from which to choose, divided into four categories: cheesy, smoky, spicy and sweet, ranging from $9-$15 each, with complementary sauces and condiments. I could dine quite happily at the airy industrial bar of DBGB every day of the week, with one of the two-dozen great beers on tap, and a matching sausage.

Of the choices, my favorites were in the “spicy” category including the Tunisienne—a savory lamb and mint sausage with harrisa curled up on a bed of spinach and chickpeas ($15), and the Espagnole—fat and spicy chorizo links plopped on a stew of piperade-style red and yellow peppers. The Boudin Basque is one for anyone ... [more, click below]

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

RSS Feed

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

No comments yet. Be the first to post!

Advertise on the
StrongBuzz site and emails.