<< previous review   next review >>

reviews

“Ed's Chowder House”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Seafood	Upper West Side	Moderate	Good

ght my attention. We couldn't pass on sampling the smoked Chatham cod cakes ($11) - while a little sloppy on presentation (wilted sprigs of watercress) packed a good deal of flavor between the generous chunks of fish and a roasted tomato-chili jam.

But if you're looking to save your appetite for the main dishes or want to keep it simple, I say go for the chowder sampler ($12). It is Ed's Chowder House, after all. The New England clam chowder is textbook and delicious, thick and creamy and stocked with fresh clams. The winter squash chowder was drizzled with an anise-flavored cream and sprinkled with fried shallots. Then there's the Manhattan-style blue crab chowder with bits of bacon, corn and shreds of crabmeat that had a nice kick to it. By this point, my friend and I felt like we should be sitting near a beach drinking cold beers.

As much as I would have liked to blame Ed Brown for reminding me half way through the meal that I should've worn pants with more stretch, much of it goes to Executive Chef Jamie Knott (Brown is the chef-collaborator here). He's kept the entrée options between "composed" and "simple" mains. Many of the dishes were prepared simply and well executed. Again, I didn't know where to begin.

I'm glad the peppered tuna steak frites and herbed butter ($28) popped out. The tuna was seared a golden brown on the outside, and the inside was rare like it should be. We could have gone for the lobster roll ($24) or a potato-crusted Chatham cod ($24), but we opted for the New Bedford sea scallops a la plancha atop some butter beans, bacon and escarole ($26). The scallops were rich with flavor and the bean mix made it hearty as any meat-centric dish you'd want in the middle of winter.

Our server forgot to bring out the order of cod but maybe that was a good thing. I was full and nursing my glass of fruity, dry Sauvignon Blanc. But dessert was still waiting. Most of my experiences at seafood themed restaurants are that desserts are an after thought. You might get some ice cream or a flourless chocolate torte. Instead, we couldn't stop devouring the chocolate beignets ($8) with a Kahlua and vanilla bean with hazelnut cream and chocolate sauce.

I started dinner wondering why none of my friends connected seafood as the "it" food in New York. Maybe it's because we have so many options. If you think about it, Brown did create a following ... [more, click below]

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

Posted: March 3, 2010

Other restaurants in Upper West Side :
+ 'Cesca   + Asiate   + Blue Hill Stone Barns   + Per Se   + The Neptune Room   + Spigolo   + Telepan   + Aix Brasserie   + 'Cesca   + Bar Boulud   + Dovetail   + BarBao   + Dinosaur Bar-be-Que   + Kefi   + Bar Luna   + Ed's Chowder House   + Red Rooster, by Rachel Barbarotta   + Loi by Dara Pollak   

Share ! Post a comment