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“Northern Spy”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American East Village Moderate Great

and sides (all $5) like red quinoa with mint, radishes, and sherry vinegar, wild rice with local feta, mint and lemon and runner beans with cheddar and parsley.

Then again there is quite enough for the carnivore, though the conscious, sustainable one, too. For instance, the crispy chicken thigh sandwich topped with poached eggs and chimichurri ($11), the country ham sandwich with pickled onions and Landaff cheese ($10), or the pork terrine with pickled vegetables, Dijon mustard and crostini. At dinner, we went for the roasted Bobo farms chicken, juicy, succulent, and fragrant with herbs and lemon, served with a generous batch of Brussels sprouts all swimming in a natural jus livened up with lemon ($15). While we ate, slowly and leisurely over several courses with several beverages, two sets of neighbors came and left, everyone passing plates back and forth, sharing in that way that foodies must.

After our table was cleared, our waitress came round to offer dessert. We were torn. We had really eaten more than our share, but when we heard about the caramel tart, the decision was made. We would eat more. The tart was delicious, more of a creamy caramel custard than a sticky caramel, actually, and it was poured into an almond crust served with fresh whipped cream and candied lemon zest. While I really shouldn’t have, I did. I finished it. Mon dieu.

I was so pleased with my meal at Northern Spy. Really, I was thrilled. The food was cooked with soul, and it was incredibly reasonably priced (dinner for two was $80). Plus, I haven’t had much luck lately. I was really disappointed in Roman’s, which was my last real dinner out. So eating at Northern Spy was kind of like having a really good date after a rash of bad ones. You feel happy, filled with hope, and looking forward to the next time. An hour wait isn’t so bad for all that.

Northern Spy is located at 511 East 12th Street, between Avenues A & B, 212-228-5100. No reservations.

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