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“Jung Sik”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Asian Tribeca Break the Bank Good

ck cod fish, dressed up in a ravishing red pepper soy glaze. It makes the need for black cod with miso vanish. From the meat category, go with the classic galbi--a rich and hearty stew of braised short ribs, tossed with kim chi, and adorned with rice cakes the shape of Pirate's Booty. 

The chef also produces a beautiful selection of homemade breads, including an Earl Grey-raisin roll, a sourdough rye, and a black olive ciabatta knot. The bread is served with alongside a puck of soft butter and a mound of lovely salt the size and shape of rock salt used to melt ice in winter. I had myself a delicious little bread party.

Unfortunately, not all of the chef's hard work pays off. Nearly all of the salads were beautiful, but not exactly enjoyable. The "Four Seasons" salad includes batons of zucchini, a quail egg, and parsley coming together in a kind of a diorama from your time in the fourth grade. It's really an art project and I did not find it as edible as much as it was curious to admire from afar.

The "Spoonable," a yogurt, beet and carrot composition, is served on a wild white ceramic platter that looks as though it was cast by Gaudi himself. It too is more pleasing to take in with your eyes than your mouth. The yogurt foam is used as a pillow for crudité of all kinds and though it is refreshing and tasty, it seems as though it's more of a culinary starting point than a completed thought.

The "Bibim," also had me scratching my head. The waiter indicated that it was a signature dish, a caprese salad of sorts served bibimbap style. The chef offers a bowl (which we all commented resembled a potty) filled with two piles of what looks like confetti - one tomato and one mozzarella--crowned with a scoop of frozen arugula sorbet. Your job is to mix it all together and enjoy the sunny flavors of a carpaccio. Well, this just does not work. The icy arugula was too cold, freezing the flavors of the tomato and cheese. On a cold, dark night, this salad just seemed off the wall. Also, skip the "five senses" pork which did nothing for any of my senses.

As for dessert, let me say with utter confidence that burdock root does not belong in a pound cake. Sadly, the dessert list does not include one pleasing dish. So forget it altogether.

Instead, drink! While the food is hit or miss, the cocktails are truly outstanding. There is a small quiet bar in the ante room ... [more, click below]

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