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“Saxon + Parole”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	East Village	Moderate	Great

i ($20). The size of dumplings, these handmade tortellini are napped in brown butter, sage, and parmesan and given a bit of peppery finish from a handful of fresh arugula. I'd love to make these at home. If only.

Another wonderful surprise on the menu is a collection of "pots," in particular the mushroom mousse, served in a Wek jar (identified by Dawn), capped off with a shimmering jelly of Whiskey and truffles ($10). This is a must-have, I don't care if you usually dive into the foie, you will want this. Don't turn up your nose at the fact that's it just mushroom. It's some sort of magical formula (maybe an armful of butter) that has turned these earthy mushrooms into a duck liver mousse, with the same rich, unctuous, artery-clogging flavors. It's marvelous.

Service at S+P is, as you'd expect from this team of veterans, excellent. (As is the soundtrack, particularly at Brunch. I'd like the playlist, please.) The GM is Linden Pride, who like Naren, is also an Australian import. Pride was the former operations manager of some of Australia's top drinking and dining destinations (Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney, Spice Temple Sydney, Spice Temple Melbourne, The Waiting Room, and Rockpool Bar & Grill Perth) and worked in some of London's most influential bars and restaurants, including the Michelin-starred, Hakkasan. He runs a great room, one that emphasizes service with sweetness. Both times I wanted to hug my server after dinner. I am like that though. I like to hug people who are really knowledgeable, who work hard, and who treat me well. Not sure what that says about my personality, but I'll leave that up to you to decide.

Quite frankly, I also wanted to hug the pastry chef, Rob Rohl, the man behind the restaurant's fantastic desserts ($9 each), in particular the Mother-in-law's Christmas pudding (actually the recipe of Farmerie's brother Adam's mother-in-law). It's moist, sticky, fruity, chocolately, citrusy, rich, and decadent. Hanukkah needs this pudding!

The doughnuts, fried and served warm (with holes and all), are dusted in sugar and come with a vanilla and a chocolate dipping sauce. Neither sauce is really needed, but hey, if you're offering? Why not. And don't leave without a slice of the silken cheesecake on a graham cracker crust garnished with slices of that same quince from brunch. It was delicious. And I was ready for another ... [more, click below]

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Posted: December 1, 2011

Other restaurants in East Village :
+ Yujin-- Closed   + Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar   + Mermaid Inn   + Five Points   + Lavagna   + Five Points   + Bond Street   + Jewel Bako   + Alphabet Kitchen   + In Vino   + Bao 111   + Chikalicious   + Il Buco   + Hearth   + Lima's Taste   + Mercadito   + Hedeh   + Momofuku   + Una Pizza Napoletana   + Winebar   + Uovo-- CLOSED   + Mo Pitkin's House of Satisfaction   + Gotham Bar & Grill   + Colors   + Chinatown Brasserie   + Knife and Fork   + European Union-- NEW CHEF; SEE APRIL 2007 Review   + Aroma Kitchen and Winebar   + Stand   + European Union   + Mercat   + Gemma   + Back Forty   + The Smith   + Seymour Burton   + Belcourt   + Graffiti   + The Redhead   + Double Crown    + Apiary   + Joe Doe   + Apiary by guest reviewer Kiri Tannenbaum   + DBGB   + Northern Spy   + Goat Town   + Saxon + Parole   + Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria   + Acme   + Calliope   + Nicoletta   + JEPPNEY by Claire Jaffe   + Feast   

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